Dirty Diseasels

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Steve Holland
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Dirty Diseasels

Postby Steve Holland » Wed Jan 07, 2015 10:32 pm

In the thread on my Bagnalls http://gn15.info/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=9716 I mentioned that I was trying to get to grips with acrylic paints. Up to now I have only ever used Humbrol enamels for weathering, but I was getting some earache about the smell of the thinners :(
The two guinea pigs were the Smallbeach diesels. One of these is a Steve Bennett 'Dragonfly' kit, and the other is a Baguley style machine on a modified Bachmann Junior chassis.

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The basic Dragonfly before it got 'played with'.

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The Baguley near enough complete.

I added lights from an Italeri truck accessory kit to both locos, with micro LEDs inside them. I wish I had put a thin layer of paint over the LEDs to tone down their output before I fixed the lenses in place - they are almost bright enough to be able to turn the room lights off at night. Dragonfly ended up with some larger door panels scribed in to the body sides as I thought the original access panels were a little on the small side - not enough room to swing a hammer!
The basic paint finish was done with an airbrush and looked far too pristine.

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I found out the hard way that I could not wipe off an overly heavy application of acrylic grot from an underlying acrylic paint layer using thinners. I tried this on a van and ended up with base colour softening and blending with the weathering to produce something I did not want :evil: followed by some naughty words. The basic paint job on the Bagnalls was done with enamels - different formulation so no problems with wiping the acrylic weathering off.
I ended up using very dilute washes of acrylics (virtually coloured water) to build up the weathering bit by bit. I used colours from the Lifecolor sets CS21 (Rail Weathering), CS27 (Black Rubber Shades & Co) and SPG03 (Rust). Other paints came from the Citadel range that I got from our local Games Workshop - strange names but excellent paints. I used Nuln Oil and Agrax Earthshade to get oil streaks, leaks and dribbles. Finally powdered graphite was rubbed on to the models with a cotton wool bud to simulate areas where the paint has been rubbed away.

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I really hope he is not in a rough shunt driving that thing!

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I really must get some matt varnish on Dragonfly's driver. Another lesson learned - don't use Nuln Oil shade on figures to dirty their overalls as it dries with a sheen :roll:
I am fairly happy with the outcome on my dirty diseasels as it has been a whole new way of weathering models for me. Now I need a bit more practice getting 'lumpy' areas of rust so the tub wagons could be the next victims for treatment.
Steve Holland

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Re: Dirty Diseasels

Postby TPP » Thu Jan 08, 2015 7:58 am

Hi Steve

Love both of those - they look really great

Can Iask a few questions please ...

Is there a prototype for the Baguely or is this something imagined - I really like that

And secondly where did the sitting figure come from on the other loco ?

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Re: Dirty Diseasels

Postby Gerry Bullock » Thu Jan 08, 2015 10:31 am

TPP wrote:Hi Steve

Love both of those - they look really great

Can I ask a few questions please ...

Is there a prototype for the Baguely or is this something imagined - I really like that?


Here's the proto:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/mabvith/7125269999/
So little time, so many ideas!!!!! GerryB.
http://gn15gnutt.blogspot.com/

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Re: Dirty Diseasels

Postby Gerry Bullock » Thu Jan 08, 2015 10:40 am

The first Baguley build on Gnatterbox was back in 2006:
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1825

OK so the first isn't what you might expect, however goto Page 4 and you'll find it. 8)
So little time, so many ideas!!!!! GerryB.

http://gn15gnutt.blogspot.com/

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Steve Holland
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Re: Dirty Diseasels

Postby Steve Holland » Thu Jan 08, 2015 11:29 am

Thanks for the kind comments.
The Baguley was inspired by a couple of the Gn15 Tomes, http://tome.gn15.info/05_April_07.pdf and http://tome.gn15.info/05_April_07_supplement.pdf. I was not able to get a Bachmann Thomas to butcher at the time, so used a Bachmann Junior loco instead. The thing did not look right with the rear wheel set removed, so the centre drivers got turned in to fly cranks with some styrene balance weights. I don't think that Baguley built anything quite like Nutcracker but at least it looks like it came from Burton upon Trent.
The seated figure on Dragonfly is from one of the cheap Chinese figure sets sold on eBay - just search for 1:24 figures and you should find them. He was holding a newspaper on his lap, so that got surgically removed and then his legs and left arm were altered to fit the loco. He was my first attempt at figure painting in a long time and uses the skin tones from the Citadel range. The base coat was Bugman's Glow, followed by a shade called Cadian Fleshtone then another shade called Kislev Flesh. A wash of Reikland Fleshshade was then applied which emphasised the shadow areas. The shades are designed to show the underlying colour so the result is (I think) a decent looking figure with just a little effort.
I am enjoying playing with these acrylic paints - I think they will catch on :D
Steve Holland



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Re: Dirty Diseasels

Postby rue_d_etropal » Thu Jan 08, 2015 5:09 pm

very nice.
I have been using acrylic paint for years.The solvent used is biggest problem, especially in spray cans, as the smell clings to everything, even outside in open air.
One thing I have found is that it is not all the same. Some colours dry differently to others. White is hopeless. I had a nice supply of flat grey paint I always used to prime any plastic/resin surface. Unfotunately I have now used it up, but do find other makes almost as good. My neighbour(English) in France is a model maker/wargamer and says priming with Halfords accrylic is best way to get a good finish. For some reason most paints adhere better to a grey painted surface, and I even find cheap matchpots of emulsion paint work well on a primed surface. They can be easily thinned down with water, and you can then build up colours.
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http://www.rue-d-etropal.com

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Re: Dirty Diseasels

Postby Simon » Thu Jan 08, 2015 6:09 pm

Very very nice models.

I've a Bachmann Junior that I was thinking of doing something similar too. Does losing one pair of wheels make much difference to its running?

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Re: Dirty Diseasels

Postby KEG » Thu Jan 08, 2015 6:15 pm

One thing I have found is that it is not all the same. Some colours dry differently to others. White is hopeless.


I wish, Simon would show pictures of some of his wheathering. I never experienced that colours from the same range dry differently. Enamels take much longer to dry than acrylics. Thin layers of Acrylics can be dried in seconds with the help of a hairdryer and can be blown in the farthest corners. .

Most modellers use a suitable matt primer. For my Fiat-Sero Speeder I used white from the artist supply shop.
Most of the time I use Zink based grey spray paint from the automobile body shop:

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Almost every kind of colours stick to the slighly rough surface. I mainly use the cheap Acrylics from tubes. Build up very thin layers. Sometimes I use meth sprit / alcohol instead of water to dilute the paints.

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The above diesel under construction was build from a 7 / 8th card kit.

Have Fun

Juergen
Last edited by KEG on Thu Jan 08, 2015 8:26 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Steve Holland
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Re: Dirty Diseasels

Postby Steve Holland » Thu Jan 08, 2015 6:45 pm

Simon,

Losing a pair of wheels has not made any difference to the running of the Bachmann Junior chassis. Just be very careful not to be too brutal when you are removing the centre driving wheel treads and spokes otherwise you may disturb the quartering or damage the final drive gear. You will need to clean any metal filings from the final drive gear, probably best to wash it off with some isopropyl alcohol, and re-lubricate with some plastic compatible grease. The redundant pick ups for the centre wheel set were just nipped off with some flush cutters.
Steve Holland



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Re: Dirty Diseasels

Postby TPP » Thu Jan 08, 2015 10:13 pm

Thanks for the info Steve

I think I might have to build myself one of those for myself

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Re: Dirty Diseasels

Postby Brack » Thu Jan 08, 2015 11:21 pm

I've always used acrylics, the gw ones are good, but the washes do dry a bit shiny. Not too much of a problem as I always give things a coat of Vallejo acrylic Matt varnish at the end. The rail match, Vallejo and gw acrylics can be mixed in my experience, but only use water to thin them. Alcohol will cause them to make some sort of cheese like substance. Tamiya acrylics can be thinned with alcohol as their chemistry is different, so don't mix them with the water based ones. Vallejo have an excellent range and are worth looking at (I like their dropper bottles, and the air colour stuff is nice to airbrush with).
Texture wise I reach for weathering powders at this stage, though household ingredients are also handy, I have wagons weathered with paprika, turmeric and cumin powders, and use wetted toothpaste for cement wagons!


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