Resin Kit assembly

For discussion of the issues faced when building a model or layout - how to replicate wood, what glues to use, exactly how much weathering can a Gnat take, a good source of detailing accessories - you get the picture, I'm sure.

Moderator: GnATTERbox Moderators

Jblair
'boxer
'boxer
Posts: 12
Joined: Tue Jan 16, 2007 8:47 am
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Interests: Narrow Gauge trains.

Resin Kit assembly

Postby Jblair » Tue Nov 13, 2007 11:24 am

I'm sure it has been addressed before. But I received in the post a couple of kits from Sidlines (Thanks Steve). Since this is the first Resin Kit I have assembled (many styrene, wood etc) and I don't want to muck up Steves wonderful kits I thought I would just ask for confirmation on a couple of assembly points.

First of all I remember hearing from somewhere that you need to wash or clean the resin parts prior to assembly to remove the mold release agent. Is just soapy water enough or should further cleaning be undertaken?

Second what type of glues? Obvioulsy styrene type glues wouldn't be very good or PVA! :lol: Was thinking of using super glue.

Third and final. What types of paint best acrylic or enamel?

Any further suggestions/hints for a first Resin kit assembly?

At least for my first attempts starting with the Sidelines SL500 flat and the SL501 Covered van. So they should be good intro's to resing kits. And sorry for all the questions guys but want them to turn out right the first time! :wink:
Jarrod Blair
Melbourne, Australia

User avatar
Gerry Bullock
Millegniumer
Millegniumer
Posts: 3220
Joined: Wed Jul 30, 2003 8:07 pm
Location: S.E.Essex
Interests: Gn15 and O Gauge at Club.

Postby Gerry Bullock » Tue Nov 13, 2007 11:55 am

Hi Jarrod,
You shouldn't have problems with Steve's kits. Cleaning, if I do it :lol: , I use a proprietary cleaner Flash (used in Kitchen in UK) rather than soap then rinse in water. As most of my models are rather grotty in their finish I tend not to wash resin components and take what comes when I paint them :wink:
I use Super glue to adhere parts, started with thicker versions until I was used to its performance. Now use the thin stuff.
I always paint the model with aerosols, car paint undercoat (red or grey) and then use a combination of either modelling / car finish aerosols.
When I use Acrylic hand brushed paints, mainly for weathering I'm using the Gaming Range available in UK which is liquid rather than the Artist's Acrylics which are more gel like. However I'll use those too if the colour is what I want.
You'll obviously get better brand recommendations from fellow Gnatterboxers Down Under.
So little time, so many ideas!!!!! GerryB.
http://gn15gnutt.blogspot.com/

User avatar
Steve Bennett
Millegniumer
Millegniumer
Posts: 4512
Joined: Sat May 17, 2003 12:55 am
Location: Exeter, UK
Interests: railways?

Postby Steve Bennett » Tue Nov 13, 2007 12:01 pm

I'm hoping others will pass on their tips, as I am far from a beginner at putting these together, but a couple of answers for you.

There is no need to wash the parts before assembly as I dont use any mould release.
My personnal preference for sticking them together is Superglue/CA, it works great on resin. As an alternative, a 2 part epoxy works well, but not as quick and a little more messy.
I would recommend washing before painting, just warm soapy water to remove any grease from fingers and any dust from filing/drilling. I prefer an Acrylic undercoat from an aerosol and then you can use the paint of your choice on top, even cellulose based as long as it is not put on too wet.

Hope that helps for starters.
Steve Bennett
Sidelines
http://www.pepper7.com

User avatar
Gerry Bullock
Millegniumer
Millegniumer
Posts: 3220
Joined: Wed Jul 30, 2003 8:07 pm
Location: S.E.Essex
Interests: Gn15 and O Gauge at Club.

Postby Gerry Bullock » Tue Nov 13, 2007 12:28 pm

Steve Bennett wrote:I would recommend washing before painting, just warm soapy water to remove any grease from fingers and any dust from filing/drilling.

This is where I deviate from the norm; if I'm going to build grot I don't wash before paint and use the grease/fingerprints to my advantage when weathering :wink: :lol: :lol:
That's Gnot a recommendation just a statement :!:
So little time, so many ideas!!!!! GerryB.

http://gn15gnutt.blogspot.com/

User avatar
Willow Creek Traction
Demi-Millegniumer
Demi-Millegniumer
Posts: 923
Joined: Wed Feb 07, 2007 5:14 am
Location: Boonville, Missouri, USA
Interests: HO, On30, G/Hn15, regular G, kites, model rockets, the occasional model boat, retro sci-fi miniatures game.

Postby Willow Creek Traction » Tue Nov 13, 2007 1:50 pm

Hey Steve;

For all the model painting I've done for three decades (approaching four :shock: ) on wood, plastic, metal, resin, balsa and tissue; using enamels, lacquers, acrylics, nitrate dope, butyrate dope, automobile colors; I've heard and read mention of the cellulose base paints but still don't know which paints they are. :?

They wouldn't be the auto paints would they?
later, Forrest Today's scientists have substituted mathematics for experiments, and they wander off through equation after equation, and eventually build a structure which has no relation to reality. -- Nikola Tesla, July, 1934

User avatar
Steve Bennett
Millegniumer
Millegniumer
Posts: 4512
Joined: Sat May 17, 2003 12:55 am
Location: Exeter, UK
Interests: railways?

Postby Steve Bennett » Tue Nov 13, 2007 2:03 pm

Willow Creek Traction wrote:They wouldn't be the auto paints would they?


Yes, automotive paints were cellulose based, but certainly this side of the pond, they have now been replaced by Acrylics, nasty stuff cellulose.

I'm not sure about Dope, that was always cellulose, but I have not used it for many years, I expect that has had to change too.
Steve Bennett

Sidelines

http://www.pepper7.com

User avatar
Rockley Bottom
Demi-Millegniumer
Demi-Millegniumer
Posts: 861
Joined: Mon Mar 07, 2005 8:48 am
Location: Norwich Norfolk
Interests: NG railways

Postby Rockley Bottom » Tue Nov 13, 2007 2:28 pm

Hi
To glue resin as Steve says I also use supa glue if I can hold the bits together and there is no chance of them moving or 5 minute epoxy as this gives some time to "slip and slide" bits in position. It can be cut away from any seams when cheese hard and will fill small gaps.

For paint I also prime with car primer first as it shows up any flaws ready for a final finish and the top coat can then be applied which can be either spray or brush

Regards

Ralph

User avatar
Gerry Bullock
Millegniumer
Millegniumer
Posts: 3220
Joined: Wed Jul 30, 2003 8:07 pm
Location: S.E.Essex
Interests: Gn15 and O Gauge at Club.

Postby Gerry Bullock » Tue Nov 13, 2007 2:51 pm

Rockley Bottom wrote:Hi
To glue resin as Steve says I also use supa glue if I can hold the bits together and there is no chance of them moving or 5 minute epoxy as this gives some time to "slip and slide" bits in position.
Regards

Ralph

The second chance method Ralph when using CA is to firstly prime individual components then if it slips and sets :oops: you can easily break the bond.
So little time, so many ideas!!!!! GerryB.

http://gn15gnutt.blogspot.com/

User avatar
Rockley Bottom
Demi-Millegniumer
Demi-Millegniumer
Posts: 861
Joined: Mon Mar 07, 2005 8:48 am
Location: Norwich Norfolk
Interests: NG railways

Postby Rockley Bottom » Tue Nov 13, 2007 3:28 pm

Gerry

A good method on wood, it seals the grain and you get a better join with the second application
Thanks for the reminder :!:
Ralph

User avatar
AndyA
Demi-Millegniumer
Demi-Millegniumer
Posts: 887
Joined: Tue Dec 30, 2003 12:24 am
Location: Southampton, England
Interests: Railways, Folk music, food, travel
Andy died 14-Sep-2017 and will post no more. Travel well on your new guage.

Postby AndyA » Tue Nov 13, 2007 6:14 pm

I'm going to break with the trend here, but as an inveterate bodger, I use a cheap "five-minute-epoxy" for Steve's kits. I've had a couple of ACC joints come apart, probably because I don't do it properly, or use cheap or old ACC. :)

Although, as he says, you don't actually need to clean Sidelines stuff beforehand, I tend to do it anyway, because other resin stuff does need it. Put it this way, it doesn't hurt. Of all the odd things, I use a solution of biological washing powder, then rinse the white 'filler' off in clean water.

Citadel (Games Workshop) in the UK do a pretty good spray acrylic primer that seems to keep better than the Halfords stuff, but I'm nearly at the point of finishing using their acrylic 'foundation paint' for a project and, lacking an airbrush or the skill to use one, this may be the way to go for us old fogeys with paint-brushes. Certainly sticks well.

regards
Andy A
Gn15: Gnot so much a scale, more a state of mind
gnine: less is the gnew more
GnTonic - enjoy irresponsibly

User avatar
Bob Taylor
Seasoned Campaigner
Seasoned Campaigner
Posts: 421
Joined: Fri Feb 17, 2006 5:33 pm
Location: Black Country, UK - NOT Birmingham!
Interests: GN15!, Zak and Travis my Border Collies, Steam Rallies and Canals.

Postby Bob Taylor » Tue Nov 13, 2007 6:47 pm

Super glue works great. Automotive spray paint also worked fine.

Bob.
maybach52.taylor@googlemail.com.

Gn15: Remember SIZE does matter! and may all your gauges be little ones.

Gnine: Narrow your horizons!

User avatar
Peter
GnatterBox Centurion
GnatterBox Centurion
Posts: 247
Joined: Thu Apr 08, 2004 9:20 pm
Location: Yosemite National Park, CA
Interests: Irish Music, Maps, Eaton Hall and Sand Hutton

Postby Peter » Tue Nov 13, 2007 8:49 pm

Whatever you do, don't use a TIG welder :lol:
Failure is just success rounded down.

User avatar
More_Cats_Than_Sense
Millegniumer
Millegniumer
Posts: 1252
Joined: Sun Aug 13, 2006 10:10 am
Location: Suffolk, UK
Interests: Railways, Cats, Computers, Beer

Postby More_Cats_Than_Sense » Tue Nov 13, 2007 9:12 pm

Peter wrote:Whatever you do, don't use a TIG welder :lol:


Or Oxy-Acetylene either, come to that! :mrgreen:
Barry Weston

If at first you don't succeed, use a bigger hammer.

The only thing that keeps me sane, is the friendship I share with my collection of singing potatoes....

Never knowingly sensible!

User avatar
greengiant
True GnATTERbox
True GnATTERbox
Posts: 68
Joined: Sat Nov 18, 2006 9:24 pm
Location: Kent
Interests: 7mm, O-16.5, GN15 and 2 foot

Postby greengiant » Tue Nov 13, 2007 9:12 pm

Steve's kits go together really well.
I wash mine with a toothbrush, warm water and soap.
Stick together with thin super glue. Hold the parts together and apply the glue to the join and capillary action takes it through the joint.
Wash again and spray with car acrylic undercoat.
The topcoat and weathering are all brush painted using Tamiya acrylics.
A couple of evenings work and they came out like this.

Image

All I need to do is add some weight to the underside.
Martin

User avatar
Steve Bennett
Millegniumer
Millegniumer
Posts: 4512
Joined: Sat May 17, 2003 12:55 am
Location: Exeter, UK
Interests: railways?

Postby Steve Bennett » Tue Nov 13, 2007 9:19 pm

Show that photo as often as you want Martin, I still think it is one of the best adverts for my stuff that I have seen :) . Also reminds me, I must dig out some of my folded tarpaulins and play around with painting them :) .
Steve Bennett

Sidelines

http://www.pepper7.com

Jblair
'boxer
'boxer
Posts: 12
Joined: Tue Jan 16, 2007 8:47 am
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Interests: Narrow Gauge trains.

Postby Jblair » Tue Nov 13, 2007 11:25 pm

Thanks for all the tips guys!

Will put the arc welder and the Mig away. :twisted: And get out the glue!

Glad I asked the question many good ideas there. And looks like I chose the right resin kits to start with! :lol:
Jarrod Blair

Melbourne, Australia


Return to “Modelling Matters”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 5 guests