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Posted: Thu Jan 29, 2009 8:42 pm
by Dallas_M
teetrix wrote:btw: the radiator grill is awesome. I think, the lettering is slaters? Michael


Hi Michael --

Yes, Slater's 2mm letters on the radiator. The Slater's stuff is hard to find in the US, but I got some from a train show vendor who carries a variety of UK items ... have to grab some more. For US modelers, Plastruct has small plastic letters too.

I think any sort of warning stripes would be a little late for the intended time frame ... well, I haven't strictly made up my mind on that ... but I'm thinking 1930s-1940s ... but gray does weather nicely ...

Cheers,
Dallas

Posted: Thu Jan 29, 2009 9:00 pm
by Nick Ellingworth
Yeah I reckon the 30s and 40s are too early for any sort of health and safety stuff. :lol:

Posted: Sun Feb 01, 2009 11:39 pm
by Dallas_M
Hello, Howdy and G'day --

Went to a local train show today and picked up a nice variety of parts ... some Ozark Miniatures and Trackside Details G scale parts ... some G scale Grandt Line NBW's ... and a good variety of Tichy rivets ...

The Tichy rivets are now available in .070" and .080" diameter, in addition to all the smaller sizes previously announced. And, I spoke with Don Tichy who indicated that he'll be making more large hardware pieces (rivets, NBW's, etc) ... as the 1/35 scale military modelers are eager for his items. Some of those should be handy for us too.

One of the Ozark items was an air tank that will likely make it onto the little critter ... and lots of the little hardware bits too ... will post pix when I get time out to fiddle with those things.

So, not so much a progress report, but mostly a "hello" ... and hopefully the new stock of goodies will spur some more progress soon! :wink:

Posted: Mon Feb 02, 2009 3:39 am
by Sir Briand
Dallas

Just logged in after a short absence and am delighted that you have finally seen the light :D :D :D .

Personally I like the critter with the small trucks and hefty sideframes on them showing between hefty sideframes on the loco. Heavy hauler steamers in the UK always had small drivers. Big drivers were for the flashy folk.

Memo to self: Keep track of this topic.

Posted: Sat Feb 07, 2009 10:37 pm
by Dallas_M
"G"reetings --

Last weekend, I was fortunate to visit a local train show where one of the vendors had a good stock of G scale detail parts:

Image

So I went a little Gnuts and stocked up on a good variety of bits-n-pieces. Finally got a modeling break last night and put a few little bits to work:

Image

Also added more rivets to the cab and there's a nice air tank in the assortment of goodies that should fit the loco nicely .... all I have to do now is duplicate the pilot details for the rear end ... then detail the side sills ... add the truck frames ... and, and, and ... zoinks! :shock: :lol:

Thanks for the welcome Sir Briand!

Posted: Sun Feb 08, 2009 8:19 am
by mad gerald
Dallas_M wrote:"G"reetings --

So I went a little Gnuts and stocked up on a good variety of bits-n-pieces.


Dallas, you got lucky!

Ozark + Trackside items a partly available over here, but Grandts is hard to get (or not available within Germany). :(

I think, it's needless to ask - but, I guess the coupler mounting is scratchbuilt by you?! What kind of couplers do you use, KaDee On30?

Happy modelling! :lol:

Posted: Sun Feb 08, 2009 8:43 am
by Dallas_M
mad gerald wrote:Dallas, you got lucky!

Ozark + Trackside items a partly available over here, but Grandts is hard to get (or not available within Germany). :(

I think, it's needless to ask - but, I guess the coupler mounting is scratchbuilt by you?! What kind of couplers do you use, KaDee On30?


Hi Gerald --

Grandt LIne can be hard to get even here! I'm waiting to see if they'll fill an order I called in a while back ... meanwhile, happy to find some of their 1/2" scale items at the show ... but those are a bit LARGE for most of our Gn15 projects.

Tichy Train Group makes a good assortment of NBW's, rivets, etc ... their web site has a cross-reference to Grandt items. Also, they're pretty good about keeping things in stock, so you might want to give them a try:
http://tichytraingroup.com/

Yes, coupler boxes are scratchbuilt from styrene ... I'm using Kadee #803 On3 couplers ... the HO couplers would be good for smaller stock, but for the chunky stuff I'm building, the On3 look better (at least to me)!

Hope to work on the rear pilot (buffer beam) Sunday night ... then start detailing the frame when I get a chance ... 8)

Posted: Sun Feb 08, 2009 8:54 am
by teetrix
Gerald,

maybe you can ask Karl-Heinz Stuempfl from
http://www.ks-modelleisenbahnen.de
he orders sometimes in the US and Canada (Boulder Valley Models incl. :D ) for other customers. Unfortunately he not mentioned it on his homepage. Best is, you call him at the phone.
Another chance is
http://www.amerikanismen.de/
which have some Grandt Line in stock and order for you too.
Best is to ask both and compare the prices.

Michael

Posted: Sun Feb 08, 2009 2:16 pm
by mad gerald
Dallas_M wrote:
Yes, coupler boxes are scratchbuilt from styrene ... I'm using Kadee #803 On3 couplers ... the HO couplers would be good for smaller stock, but for the chunky stuff I'm building, the On3 look better (at least to me)!


Dallas,

what length does the On3 coupler shaft itself actually have?

The length is not mentioned here, but all other dimensions:

http://www.rd-hobby.de/shopping/catalog.php?id=723

@ teetrix

Thanks for the hints - I visited Kalle Stuempfel's website just a couple of days ago, but I didn' know, that he does some ordering in the USA from time to time ...

Posted: Sun Feb 08, 2009 8:19 pm
by Dallas_M
mad gerald wrote:what length does the On3 coupler shaft itself actually have? The length is not mentioned here, but all other dimensions: http://www.rd-hobby.de/shopping/catalog.php?id=723


Hi Gerald --

I made a slight modification by cutting the Kadee coupler box a little shorter, this allows the shaft to stick out farther. This looks better to me, and I think it will allow the knuckle to swing farther for operation on tight radius curves. (Well, 12" radius is tight for big stock like this!)

The illustration of the #803 coupler on the link you've shown lists a dimension of 17/64" from back of knuckle to pivot. If I remember, I'll shoot a photo when I modify the coupler for the other end!

In HO scale, there are many variations of the Kadee couplers ... short or long shaft ... center-shaft, top-shaft ("overset"), bottom-shaft ("underset") ... in On3 there are only two choices: brown or black! :lol:

Posted: Sun Feb 08, 2009 8:35 pm
by mad gerald
Thanks Dallas,

I was just asking, because I'm thinking about swapping the OZARK link & pin coupler for a KaDee coupler - but there is not much space, because the Bachmann® Streetcar driving unit is almost right behind the front (and back) part of my chassis ... :(

So a KaDee coupler would have to be pretty short, even if I'm going to build a coupler mounting ...

Posted: Sun Feb 08, 2009 8:51 pm
by scott b
mad gerald wrote:Streetcar driving unit is almost right behind the front (and back) part of my chassis ... :(

So a KaDee coupler would have to be pretty short, even if I'm going to build a coupler mounting ...


Gerald you can convert a LnP coupler to one with a Kadee fixed in the LnP slots. Just cut a Kadee so it is the knuckle and a stick then drill a hole near the end of the stick and put it into one of the slots and hold it in with the pin. It has been shown before (way before) on this board but I am useless at finding old threads but it works fine and is prototypical. If you are not clear or even sorta fuzzy on my description let me know and I`ll try to post a pic.

Posted: Mon Feb 09, 2009 5:43 am
by GUTMACH
IMHO, link 'n pin couplers works better on the tight radius we are using, just won't pull apart like the knuckle coupler would.

Link 'n pins are more fun too ! :P

Wayde

Posted: Mon Feb 09, 2009 7:15 am
by DCRfan
mad gerald wrote:Thanks Dallas,

I was just asking, because I'm thinking about swapping the OZARK link & pin coupler for a KaDee coupler - but there is not much space, because the Bachmann® Streetcar driving unit is almost right behind the front (and back) part of my chassis ... :(

So a KaDee coupler would have to be pretty short, even if I'm going to build a coupler mounting ...


It should be simple to build a pocket to accept the link and pin on the end plate of the chassis

Posted: Mon Feb 09, 2009 9:25 am
by mad gerald
Thanks, guys,

I think I stay with the link & pin couplers, because tight radii are a "MUST GO" - the minimal radius of mine is/will be even tighter (6-8") as Dallas mentioned (12"), apart from the lack of space to fit in a Kadee coupler ...

The conversion of a L&P coupler to/with a Kadee couple is new to me, but it sounds very interesting and I'll search for some former posting regarding this topic ...

Posted: Mon Feb 09, 2009 10:35 am
by Gerry Bullock
mad gerald wrote:Thanks, guys,

I think I stay with the link & pin couplers, because tight radii are a "MUST GO" - the minimal radius of mine is/will be even tighter (6-8") as Dallas mentioned (12"), apart from the lack of space to fit in a Kadee coupler ...

The conversion of a L&P coupler to/with a Kadee couple is new to me, but it sounds very interesting and I'll search for some former posting regarding this topic ...


Hi Gerald,
Take a look here, shows the use of Steve's standard coupler pocket with KDs using a pin to locate KD and if removed can be replaced by link & pin system.
By the way KDs easily negotiate 6" radii, in fact on Secciole Salina they go down to 5" at one point. This layout has been run at shows for over 100 hours without any coupler problems with KDs. Just the one Loco with excessive overhand requires the use of a Rooster with them to guarantee trouble free running.

Posted: Mon Feb 09, 2009 12:01 pm
by mad gerald
Gerry Bullock wrote:Hi Gerald,
Take a look here, shows the use of Steve's standard coupler pocket with KDs using a pin to locate KD and if removed can be replaced by link & pin system.
By the way KDs easily negotiate 6" radii, in fact on Secciole Salina they go down to 5" at one point. This layout has been run at shows for over 100 hours without any coupler problems with KDs. Just the one Loco with excessive overhand requires the use of a Rooster with them to guarantee trouble free running.


Hi Gerry,

you made my day 8) - the possibility of using Kadee AND L&P is far more than I expected. I'll stop mounting the Ozark L&P coupler resp. building a coupler mounting and order some Kadee couplers first ...

Posted: Tue Feb 17, 2009 9:39 am
by Dallas_M
Oh goody! I was hoping to take some time out this evening to work on the Hoyt-Clagwell tractor loco ... and Les' crusty critter post made that a must!

Image

Walt is eager to see the loco enter the paint shop ... and he's gonna ride along too, because he could use some color! :lol:

Image

Good thing Mr. Haney gave us a "deal" on nuts and bolts and other bits! :wink:

Now all I have to do is put a matching set of doo-dads on the other side ... and add the new truck/bogie frames ... and build a roof ... and tie-up all the other loose ends. Meanwhile, any progress is a good thing! 8)

Posted: Tue Feb 17, 2009 9:49 pm
by Will Vale
Looking spectacularly chunky with all those details, I can't wait to see it painted. I'm guessing you won't be going for a pristine finish?

What are the plates you've added with the spidery ribs? They look a little like wall tie plates, but not quiet.

Will

Posted: Tue Feb 17, 2009 9:55 pm
by Dallas_M
Will Vale wrote:What are the plates you've added with the spidery ribs? They look a little like wall tie plates, but not quiet. Will


Hi Will --

You're right, this definitely will not get a "pristine" finish ... dinged, dented and dirty will be the look.

Those particular parts are Grandt Line #3911 bits, described as .100" Hex Nut on .250" Square Washer (in their 1/2" scale section).

Can't say that my design is "mechanically sound" but I played with a variety of bits and pieces to see what "looked" :roll: interesting on the side ... and my excuse is that those big bits tie the frame rails together ... and the smaller bits over the trucks mount the bolster beams ...

Well, that's my story and I'm sticking to it! :wink:

Posted: Mon Mar 02, 2009 12:17 pm
by Dallas_M
Uh-oh! Appears that my new critter has developed a severe case of the "diesel measles" ... also known as "diseasels" ... characterized by many, many bumpy little spots ... or rampant rivets! :shock:

Image

Getting closer ... built the roof ... loosely placed exhaust, bell and headlight ...

Image

Gnearly ready for the paint shop ... just a few bits to finalize ... some parts loosely placed in photo here. Meanwhile, busy week ahead ... so I'll mostly enjoy watching YOUR projects during the short breaks and hope for another chance at this one soon! 8)

Posted: Mon Mar 02, 2009 1:50 pm
by Simon Andrews
Been following this thread from the begining and am really impressed by what you have done so far 8) I'm looking forward to seeing your critter painted :)

Simon.

Posted: Mon Mar 02, 2009 2:29 pm
by dieselwater
Same here, it looks great. What colour are you going for?

Posted: Mon Mar 02, 2009 7:15 pm
by mad gerald
Hi Dallas,

nice to see some progress on your critter ... last time I was going to ask (but I forgot) what origin your driving unit has - I did not find any Alco S1 except ATLAS I think ... BTW: What minimum radius is possible with that kind of driving unit?

Hope you can afford some time for going on building - all work and no joy ... 8)

Posted: Mon Mar 02, 2009 8:11 pm
by Rowley
Hi Dallas
Great piece of modelling. I've followed the build from the start and enjoyed seeing it come to the completed model
All the best
Rowley