The birth of ELIXER

For discussion of the issues faced when building a model or layout - how to replicate wood, what glues to use, exactly how much weathering can a Gnat take, a good source of detailing accessories - you get the picture, I'm sure.

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SteampunkDave
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Postby SteampunkDave » Tue Oct 04, 2011 9:20 pm

Hi Juergen

Can he pedal fast enough though?. Morgan Napier Smithe needs all the pedal power he can get.
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Postby Adrian » Wed Oct 05, 2011 12:02 am

G'day Dave

Just pinched from another post:-
http://tinplategirl.com/category/projects/
Plans for airship right at bottom of page.

Cheers
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Postby SteampunkDave » Wed Oct 05, 2011 6:29 am

Thanks Adrian

By this weekend I hope to have blocked up in cardboard a model of my idea. It will not be to exact scale but it will give a general idea of my concept. I have decided that the canal needs to be at the back. I would have loved it to cut through the middle but this module could be one of several.
The dominant feature of the model will be Elixer Towers. The steam barge may become a steam launch. I will have to see :D

I will be posting pictures later. Promise :)
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Postby KEG » Wed Oct 05, 2011 6:29 am

To fly a plane by muscle power, you don´t have to be fast, but strong
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MIT_Daedalus

The pilots on you layout probably are doped with ELIXER. In NL they sewll a product named ELIXER to make doves faster, elsewhere they named a coffee ELIXER to make people faster.

For your layout, I´d suggest helicopters. Leonardo DaVinci designed one some hundred years ago. Jules Verne mentions the airship ALBATROS
http://www.freewebs.com/steamnoir/aircraft.htm

http://modelstories.free.fr/analyses/avions/MS2002_1P/ALBA_Albatros/index.html

Have Fun

Juergen

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Postby SteampunkDave » Wed Oct 05, 2011 6:51 am

Thanks Juergen,
Great links. Steam noir is new to me. Beautiful models.
Dave

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Postby SteampunkDave » Thu Oct 06, 2011 4:51 pm

Image

Sorry this is faint. Just a quick plan on graph paper. This is my 1st draft ground level. No track shown yet. Most of the real activity will take place on the next level.
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Postby Kevin » Fri Oct 07, 2011 1:16 pm

That looks like it will be a great layout.
I am looking forward to your progress. There aren't many steampunk model railways.

Have you made any other steampunk models?
I browse through the Brassgoggles forum from time to time and the tactile board has some fantastic creations from scale airships to full size props and weapons.

I did think about building a layout based on the scale of 54mm fantasy miniatures. This scales out at 1/32 so a little small for GN15.

I have made and painted a few figures in this scale. Some are a bit steampunk. The discontinued Inquisitor range by Games Workshop had some steamy figures. Don't want to hijack your thread too much so I have just added a link to my photobucket pics.

http://s272.photobucket.com/albums/jj18 ... 1QQtppZZ16

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Postby Adrian » Sun Oct 16, 2011 12:17 am

G'day Dave

Surfing the net and found the following ........

http://shop.fark.com/tag/3D+steampunk+robot+magnets

Fridge magnets so only 2 1/2 D
Not sure of the scale but the robots look a little big ..... the individual bits might be of some use though :?

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Postby SteampunkDave » Sun Oct 16, 2011 6:57 am

Thanks Kevin. Good information.

Adrian - thank you for the magnet info. I have several ideas for the moving blimp. One of them involves magnets. Do you remember magnetic table football? Using that I can readily achieve up and down movement. Another involves a turntable for circular movement. The trick is to combine them. :? The moving boat is easy. I have scrapped the first board in my head at least and increased the measurements for each module to 120cm * 60cm.

I have been sidelined these last few days with my normal work but even when plasterboarding I am refining the design in my head.

I have not had this much fun in years and wish I had got involved sooner. :D
Dave

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Postby michael » Sat Oct 22, 2011 4:50 am

I was thinking of having a Led Zeppelin


It might have a bit of trouble gittin' off the goun'

:lol: :lol:

Anyway Dave you seen to have the right sort of mix of ..... and ...... to be a big hit! I love the ideas that you are putting forward and look forward to seeing the pictures which will undoubtedly be forthcoming of your adventures.
Regards Michael
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Postby Adrian » Sat Oct 22, 2011 7:40 am

G'day Michael
It might have a bit of trouble gittin' off the goun'

As a fan of Mythbusters I have seen a lead ballon flying .... Just one of the many zany things that they have done :shock:

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Postby SteampunkDave » Sat Oct 22, 2011 1:40 pm

Thank you for your kind words Michael.
So building commences!
I have gone for a belt and braces approach to my revised baseboard. I raided my building stock surplus and purloined an unused Ikea worktop. I have fitted it with 4 adjustable legs. This is my base. I will be watching it like a hawk for any warp and may anticipate by fitting a table square underneath. I have laid down the plan outline using 12 mm wood. I am still flexible re the top. I favour birch ply but there are alternatives. The backboard when fitted will be around 36 inches high or 90 cms.

My first scenery attack will be the canal water. Though I have never before built a model railway (why I haven't a clue :oops: ) I have made wargaming scenery. In the past I have used smoky mirror, resin, varnish, silver Xmas paper etc to represent water, but if somebody has another idea I would love to hear it.

Re pics I have just bought a new digital camara so that I can share progress and build a photo record of the build. I will be asking alot of rail related questions so I thank you all in advance. :wink:
Dave

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Postby Corusman » Sun Oct 23, 2011 8:41 am

Modelling water is a tricky one, and it all depends on what you want the finished canal to look like. For a totally still water, then either painting a dark colour on the back of a sheet of perspex or just multiple layers of varnish on a prepainted piece of MDF will give a good effect.
If however you want ripples, there are numerous products called something like Magic Water that are a gel that when heat is applied with a hairdryer , melts , flows like water to cover your area and then sets with a slightly rippled surface. Evidently it can, with heat be reused. This looks really good if there is a boat or post in the canal as they appear to sit in the water rather than on it.
Lastly I have seen some rippled clear plastiv especially moulded to give water effect, but not sure how good they will be.
Best of luck with the layout and keep posting, it all makes really good reading.

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Postby Artizen » Sun Oct 23, 2011 10:11 am

This is an interesting and unusual way of creating water (but very effective) - http://www.diorama-clervaux.com/Blog/in ... ouring#c31
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Postby Toeffelholm » Sun Oct 23, 2011 4:48 pm

SteampunkDave wrote: but if somebody has another idea I would love to hear it.


Here's a piece of test-creek for my layout

Image

Made with a clear glossy lacquer that is normally used for boats.

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Postby SteampunkDave » Mon Oct 24, 2011 9:35 am

Ian a great link.
Juergen - that is excellent modelling. You have captured the trapped air in water perfectly!
Thanks Corusman for the info. I have found modelling still water to be harder than representing water with movement. Ripple glass or Stippolyte is often used for movement. The trick is to paint, detail etc and then place the ripple sheet over leaving an air gap. The higher the gap the more obscure the water effect becomes. Edward Beal in 1939 was advocating the use of glass strips or celluloid. I am favouring resin or varnish over smoky mirror plastic with diluted indian inks flooded in at different layers. Elixer will be set in a foggy night scene so I will be looking at black still water. My challenge comes when the boat moves along the backscene. How do I do a disappearing bow wave? :?

I hope to be at the Rawtenstall show this weekend where hopefully I can pick up some flexitrack.

Dave

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Postby SteampunkDave » Mon Oct 24, 2011 9:49 am

First pictures. Forgive the lack of clarity. Getting to grips with a new camera. I will improve. :)

Image

Image [/img]
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Postby Artizen » Mon Oct 24, 2011 10:07 am

OK the boat sets the tone! :D
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Postby Boghopper » Mon Oct 24, 2011 5:00 pm

I produced a small area of still water for my shoebox, "Sabots Wharf". It was simply a piece of thin card, painted in muddy tones (as the wharf is supposed to be up a creek), with a shaped piece of perspex laid over it.

Althought the boat just sits on the "water", it is modelled as a waterline craft and has a flat bottom so looks okay. The biggest problem is that dust collects around the timbers on the quayside but as long as that is kept clean it looks quite like still, murky water.


Image
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Postby SteampunkDave » Tue Oct 25, 2011 6:14 am

Looks well Chris.
My boat will be flat bottomed. I have even considered a skirt round the hull representing water so that when the boat moves it in effect takes its water with it. This would hide the boat rail underneath. It all depends on the various viewing angles. Perhaps it is possible to run on a side rail.
My immediate task is to fit the integral backscene board which will be vital to this type of build as will become clear later
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Postby KEG » Tue Oct 25, 2011 11:11 am

Let´s see the steam boat and we´ll find a way, to model suitable water.

Since it is intended to run it in the rear of the layout, viewers will not see too much water anyway.

The A.J. Goddard might be a suitable model for a small Steampunk Layout http://news.nationalgeographic.com/news/2009/11/photogalleries/091124-ghost-ship-yukon-shipwreck-pictures/


In 1 : 24 it will only be about 2 feet long.

Have Fun

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Postby Artizen » Tue Oct 25, 2011 11:12 am

In your plan is the canal at the back of the module?

If so, a small lip and a slightly lower level of water would actually hide what you have done so the boat could actually run on rails and still be visually pleasing?
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Postby Boghopper » Tue Oct 25, 2011 11:50 am

Yes, I like the boat too Dave.

Just a thought. If you can keep the keel really slim, which would look the part anyway, you could let it run in a narrow slot. Then, the opening could be edged with strips of rubber, painted to match the water so that as the craft moved forward, the rubber rose up like a bow wave and rippled along the side of the hull.

Good luck anyway. I look forward to seeing your progess.
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Postby SteampunkDave » Tue Oct 25, 2011 1:28 pm

Ian,
I put the canal at the rear for just this reason. Yes I probably don't need to get hung up over the water. However I would know that its there!
There will be 2 types of boats that can be used. My first will be a Victorian steam launch. In 1/24 these are approx 15 inches long with a beam of about 5 inches. This I will model full hull. Anything wider will be modelled 1/2 hull.

Chris, the keel you see is just there for the pic. It is the start of an Edwardian pond yacht I am building.

Juergen, thanks for the link always interesting. I will be scratch building the steam launch plank on frame style and then I will steampunk it.

I was using flashband on a job today and thinking about it I am sure I can use it on Elixer.
Dave

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Postby Carlo » Tue Oct 25, 2011 2:08 pm

Chris -
I would love to see more pics about Sabot's Warf. I am trying to do something similar in 1:12 scale.
Carlo


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