Golly, another 2 weeks has rushed by..... but then, I have just done a bit of work on my 22 year old Volvo estate to get it through an MOT. (not to mention rebuilding a petrol engined strimmer from eBay).
Anyway, progress has been slow, but I have done something....
As mentioned on Feb 9th, I cut the sideframes and coiled some brass wire to make the springs. I drilled one 1mm hole in one end of one side, held the two sides together, then drilled through. Next I cut a short length of 1mm rod and put in the hole, made sure everything was lined up, and drilled 1mm the other end (where the axles will be going), more 1mm rod, and all was square and dandy. After a little shaving/filing/sanding, I had two identical sides. So, the next task was to make some 4mm square holes for the springs, and trim the corners for where they sit inside the end beam channels. Then I cut two lengths of ¼" channel, and cemented them along the outside edges..... then had to retrim the corners
As you can see, I have a small mirror that I'm building on.... hopefully, it will make sure that everything is flat/square/perpendicular/etc.
Making the springs was really good fun
4mm diameter by 4mm long! From the coiled length, I cut 4 sections of 5 or 6 coils each, then threaded them back on the 2mm axle, and held the end against a grinding wheel in my mini drill.... first to flatten, then to smooth.... then repeat for the other end.... and the other three springs.
Axle boxes are 4mm, self adhesive 'jewels' from the craft section of a shop we have here called The Range. I did find similar ones on eBay, but I didn't need 500 of them (I still have 96 for future use). I rubbed the adhesive off the back with my thumb, then rubbed the 'chrome' off on a sanding sponge and stuck them onto some black 1mm styrene (which is why they look black... they're actually clear.
I've decided to keep the shape of the sides simple, so I have cut out parallel with the rails/footplate as far as the axle boxes, leaving the sace between the axles full depth.... which gives me slightly more room to try to hide some more weight
And in case you are wondering why there is an M8 nut there (which you probably weren't), I have found they are a very cheap alternative 'back to back' gauge
ie. using the corners, not the 13mm across the flats dimension.
Until next time.... be good!
My Mum calls me Steve.
1:32 on 16·5mm track. Gnot strictly minimum gauge... but it is the minimum that I'm working with !
And now... a critter in 1/24th... from scratch!