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Posted: Sat Jun 02, 2012 10:01 am
by chris stockdale
I really like the 'look' you have developed for both loco and stock. I think my favourite is the box van.

bestest,

Posted: Tue Jun 05, 2012 2:01 pm
by Gerry Bullock
You have a great set of wagons there Chris. 8)

OH....sht

Posted: Fri Jun 08, 2012 6:22 am
by chris69
Well I screwed up.The Open gondola car will now be a coal storage.I found out that the wheel base is to long and by no means will it go around 9 1/2 inch radius curves.Oh well,salvaged the HO chassis that came from the Magic Train Car I used,shortened it and we'll see.The top part of the car will get a foundation and now serve as a coal storage on any future layout.
LIVE AN LEARN.....
Greetings
Chris :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: :lol: :shock:

Posted: Fri Jun 22, 2012 4:15 am
by chris69
Happy evening/day ....
Well,I recycled the Magic Train chassis and turned it in to a side unloading
Coal Car.

Image

Image

I also had a pair of 3 axle trucks from an HO torpedo car and a Bachman log chassis added a card stock dump body. Dressed it up with some Plastruct parts
and we have a slag car.

Image

Image

I think it will all go in to some metal working industry module. I have some ideas based on Vulcan Iron Works but space restrictions will require some modifications.Thus the transfer table question.
As to the rolling stock.I am presently building a loco that will handle the slag traffic.Next will be a few more ore cars (2-3 max) and one more slag car.

Have a good one and thanks again for the help.
Chris :roll: :roll: :oops: :lol:

Posted: Fri Jun 22, 2012 6:29 am
by Glen A
As usual, your rust and weathering work is outstanding!
8)

Posted: Fri Jun 22, 2012 7:08 am
by chris69
Hi Glen,
thanks.But some of the praise has to go to a friend of mine Christoph(also on this forum),his method of treating the card stock with super glue is an integral part of the whole process.It gives it a metallic surface structure.Next a base coat of what ever color you desire(cheap car primer for me) and then I use a 2 part process with the stuff called:
Sophisticated Finishes by Triangle Coatings Inc .One is Metallic surfacer the other is antiquing rust solution.
They tell you in the instructions to let it dry over night,well I use the hair dryer on high and depending on the desired result put on multiple coats of the finisher.Then I let it dry over night.In the morning I put it outside for about an hour or 2.The moisture in the air changes the finish ,usually to the desired result.Next comes the final touch up with pigments and a final coat of Lusterless Flat.It seals the pigment and stops the "rusting" which will go on for some time.

All the best
Chris
:roll: :roll: :lol:

Posted: Fri Jun 22, 2012 9:08 am
by dieselwater
Great looking wagons Chris 8) The way you've photographed them with the base and backdrop makes them look real.

Miracles happen....

Posted: Fri Jul 13, 2012 12:09 am
by chris69
Happy day/evening/noon.....
well I thought that my first steamer was a FREE LANCER,well I found out I was wrong.
Looking through some old issues of the German Magazine:
Der Mittel Puffer No 26

On page 40 in the book section I found this picture

Image

sorry for the bad quality.I photographed it from a 6cmX4cm original

Image

here is one of my pictures for comparison,she is not quite finished yet in this picture.But one gets the idea.
All the best
Chris :lol: :lol: :oops: :oops: :oops:

Posted: Sun Jul 29, 2012 7:53 pm
by rockershovel
the Sittingbourne Bagnall 2-4-0F would suit the protruding motor http://www.flickr.com/photos/21640011@N07/6859472007/

Posted: Sun Jul 29, 2012 10:53 pm
by chris69
Thanks, and the imagineering machine is on full speed again.
Great pictures.
have a great weekend

Chris :lol: :lol: :oops: 8)

Posted: Sat Aug 04, 2012 10:28 pm
by Willow Creek Traction
Hi Chris, looks like you have a good thing growing.

Do wonder about that one car where it appears sideframe is below rail level. guaranteed to not make it through switches.

Image

Frame

Posted: Sun Aug 05, 2012 4:10 pm
by chris69
Hi,
well you are so right.This was just a short lived version of the car.I removed the trucks and changed it back to a 2 axle version.Had the car body been 10MM longer the 4 axle one would have worked..Love the HEAVY look but it just was no to be.

Greetings
Chris :roll: :roll: :lol: 8)

Re: My first STEAMER

Posted: Fri Jan 12, 2018 6:16 pm
by kevo
Hi chris came across your fireless loco . really brilliant got me think ing that some time back I to had a rivarossi chassi the same .after a good hunt round bingo ! I found it . and thought wouldn't mind have ing a bash at a fireless loco my self . but would like to convert chassi to DCC
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DSCF0716.JPG
DSCF0716.JPG (322.82 KiB) Viewed 1285 times
. I have converted a few 0-4-0's by follow ing idiot proof guides but this one looks a bit different like wheel pick ups on one side only . has any one had a go at a conversion on this type be for . or is it one of those split frame pick ups . any advice or hints please

Re: My first STEAMER

Posted: Thu Jan 25, 2018 7:49 am
by chris69
Hi KEVO,
sorry for the late reply, was no on here for a while. It is a fun project you are embarking on. As to your chassis question,
I can't help you there. Mine runs on track power and I never really checked if the chassis was split.You may want to check with the HO guys.
Since the original Loco was a Rivarossi , Atlas or Lilliput Model. all of them sold the same Loco just with different names and boxes.
There should be some modellers that converted them to DCC.
Keep us posted on your progress.
Best
Chris

Re: My first STEAMER

Posted: Sat Feb 03, 2018 9:22 pm
by kevo
hi chris no problem . I asked at my local model shop . acourding to them its not a split chassis so ile have a play around with a decoder and see what happens

Re: My first STEAMER

Posted: Sun Feb 04, 2018 9:43 pm
by Steve Holland
It sounds like with pick ups on only one side of the loco that the other side has uninsulated drivers, so the whole loco frames are at one rail polarity/voltage. One of the motor brushes will be connected by a wire to the pick ups, and the other motor brush will be connected directly to the motor casing. The motor fixing screws make the connection between the motor casing and loco frames. This is OK for analogue dc but both motor brushes must be isolated from the track power if you want to install a DCC decoder. The decoder will blow if track power is connected to one of the motor output leads.
This may be of some help, it is for the 0-8-0 switcher, but the principle is the same https://www.tcsdcc.com/Customer_Content/Installation_Pictures/HO_Scale/Rivarossi/0-8-0/0-8-0.htm

Re: My first STEAMER

Posted: Mon Feb 05, 2018 10:25 pm
by kevo
Crumbs steve ime glad ive just read your reply ive got a Hornby tts sound decoder I was going to have a play around with ile go through that link you have sent me and see if it leads me on the right path . I am a real novice with hard wire ing so i wouldn't want to blow it 1st time around . correct me if i am wrong but from what you say sounds like it is a split chassis :roll: thanks kev

Re: My first STEAMER

Posted: Tue Feb 06, 2018 9:26 pm
by Steve Holland
A split chassis is (to quote a certain wood preservative company) "exactly what it says on the tin" - the main frames are held apart by insulating material, and the axles are electrically isolated in the middle, so there are no pickups. The wheels are electrically connected to the half of the axle it is mounted on. Each frame is at the same polarity as the rail it is above, connected to it by the wheels and axles via the bearings. A wire from each side frame is then connected to the motor. The principle is here: http://www.lbscrmodels.co.uk/loco%20chassis%204.html
The Rivarossi chassis has pickups on one side, which rub on the backs of the wheels on that side - these wheels are insulated from the axles. The wheels on the other side are not insulated from the axles so transmit power to the mainframes via the bearings. A wire from the pickups connects to one motor brush holder which is insulated from the motor body. The other brush is electrically common with the motor body and the mainframes. If you ever take out the wheelsets make sure you put them back the correct way round as an uninsulated wheel on the opposite side of the frames from the other uninsulated wheel results in a track power short though the frames. Ask me how I know...... :oops: :D

Re: My first STEAMER

Posted: Wed Feb 07, 2018 12:52 pm
by kevo
Thanks for the more info regards the chassis steve I will have a go with mine at the weekend .