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My first STEAMER
Posted: Sat Feb 25, 2012 11:40 pm
Posted: Sun Feb 26, 2012 1:17 am
Ahh yes, recognize that mechanism
Hmm . . . from fireless locos I've seen that boiler might want to be a hair narrower depending on how thick you are calling the insulation.
From what I've read the boiler was commonly filled with a mixture of super hot water and steam and as steam was consumed more would evaporate out of the water: remember how heavy water is; and, what kind of container one needs to take the pressure.
This might offer a good example for mechanism to boiler proportions http://evworld.com/article.cfm?storyid=1417
even though it is standard gauge.
Then again, there is this beast http://www.steamlocomotive.com/nc-ga/ncr.jpg
Posted: Sun Feb 26, 2012 1:19 am
I like your fireless design and I wouldn't worry about where things should go - the real world has many stranger examples than some of our own imaginations. It's your design - put things where you want to !
The motor can simply be hidden by a cover, oil can or a driver/engineer's feet.
The Rivarossi motion is a real joy and I'm pleased it's been re-cycled. How you approach the window surrounds sounds innovative. Please keep us all up-dated with your progress and good luck with the build.
Posted: Sun Feb 26, 2012 3:28 am
Like the loco.
Like the brick wall as well!
Posted: Sun Feb 26, 2012 6:58 am
Hey Chris, I love it mate
the way the cab hangs lowdown is an interesting detail. I think the size of the boiler thingy looks fine to me
Look forward to seeing you cracking on with it
Boilers and such
Posted: Sun Feb 26, 2012 8:09 am
thanks for all your comments and encouragement.The reason for the boiler size is 2fold.One,the pipe came that way;two I wanted a bulky appearance like the Bunker Locos,that also is the reason for the low Cab and the fact that I wanted a fully enclosed cab for a crew standing up.(and may be the full interior)
I am fully aware that I am in the field of compromise.But as I said it's GNATTERING a lot and like so many of my other locos a jumble of stuff I see and like.As long as it looks plausible I'm OK with it.
As to the solder tin window seals,that's really easy.Get the thin stuff for electronic soldering,it comes in a tube spooled up.Then take the round piece of plastic that was cut out for the window and wrap it around to get the required length.Now one needs to fiddle a bit and trim it to the real length of the opening.Since it is really playable it is easy to fit in the opening and once fit glued down with CA.Once one cuts the clear it can be glued to the GASKET from the inside.I generally use clear Humbrol paint and when dry secure it with a VERY small bit of CA at an inconspicuous place.
I am also attaching a tube finish to the door opening.Same way just bigger diameter solder.
Will add some pictures on all this later.
Oh,just came across an other Fleischman steamer Chassis.On this one I really would need some of your ideas or do some serious cutting.But more later.
Have a good night/morning/day you all
Jumping of the topic a bit
Posted: Sun Feb 26, 2012 11:02 pm
Posted: Mon Feb 27, 2012 12:19 am
Looks like it would be said to be from France or Belgium; they used browns according to photos seen. Something about cab proportions adds to that.
Just for grins, here's what's being done with that Rivarossi/AHM/IHC B&O Docksider mechanism here. This one has different motor that RR original which has been lost along the way during last 4 decades.
Lots more to do to this; and it has lain dormant for a couple years. Guess that needs to be changed, eh
Harold there isn't its driver, he's posing for scale reference.
Posted: Mon Feb 27, 2012 12:35 am
Looking at the new chassis I noticed that the lowest part was over the front wheels ----- Have you thought of building a 'cab-forward' type loco (for short tunnel work
The motor would be hidden by the boiler and the cab could be fully detailed with no 'foreign' bits in it
To avoid problems with the bunker you could make it oil fired.
By the way I like your fire-less loco ---- the build looks good and I am looking forward to see how it looks with a coat of paint on it.
Posted: Mon Feb 27, 2012 2:42 am
Posted: Mon Feb 27, 2012 9:32 am
Porter in the US made several fireless locos with the cylinders at the front, just add a discharge pipe to the front of the cylinders up the front of the receiver vessel. Don't forget to add a charge point somewhere. It can be as simple as a pipe with a globe valve and a flange to mate with the steam supply pipe from the boiler house
Posted: Wed Feb 29, 2012 2:13 am
thanks for all your input,found some great details this way.
Here is an update on the progress.
The bell came from a Marklin 1:32 engine,the discharge pipes from an excavator model that was butchered for parts some time ago.The roof(not fixed) is cardboard drenched in CA. Oh the head lite is from an LGB engine.
No work done jet on the chassis etc.Still figuring out what kind of coupler and buffer plate will be used
All the best
Posted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 12:04 am
It has certainly got the look and character of a fireless - super model.
Incidentally (and I know that this is really one for Prototype Prattles), does anyone know whether there were ever any 15" / 400mm fireless locos? I certainly know of some 2' examples, but don't think I've come across anything smaller, although perhaps Woolwich had some 18" ones? Certainly the sort of place which might have needed them.
Posted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 9:21 am
I can see something in 50m gauge being likely as it was a common industrial gauge in Europe especially France, I suppose 18in is also likely.
It comes down to what gauges were most common in industry, and viability of any company to invest.
Is there a stability issue with respect to fireless locos on narrow gauge.
Although I prefer the quirky appearance of fireless locos with the cylinders the under the cab, there are real examples with the cylinders at the front end.
Posted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 7:50 pm
fireless locos would typically have an exhaust diffuser rather than a "chimney" in the conventional position
A step on ....
Posted: Fri Mar 02, 2012 5:58 am
thanks for all your input.Learning quite a bit.
but I did take quite a few liberties,just because I wanted to have a certain look
or just because I like a certain feature.I am definitely NOT ! a rivet counter.(never was)
Now here are some more pictures of my progress. I started with the basic paint and some weathering(not finished) I want a really used and almost neglected look.
Also the chassis and the buffer plates/couplers are not even started.
Enjoy the pictures:
Posted: Fri Mar 02, 2012 9:11 am
Hey Chris, what a fantastic critter! I love its monster proportions that exude a gritty industrial forcefulness.
Freelance modelling is so liberating and just plain fun, it just requires an artistic or simply a plain old Gnutters imagination
The weathering is coming on a treat, also think about dirt streaks, bare steel surfaces too. No such thing as too much
Keep it coming friend
Posted: Fri Mar 02, 2012 9:18 am
A superb model Chris
however I think the weathering (great) on the steam reservoir might just come in for a closer inspection by the H&S guys.
Posted: Fri Mar 02, 2012 2:09 pm
Looks great! Now fill the steam tank with lead shot until you get the center of gravity at scale height (for a filled tank, no cheating..) and try to keep the little bugger balanced on the track..
Posted: Fri Mar 02, 2012 2:56 pm
Nice example of your building and painting skills!
Posted: Fri Mar 02, 2012 7:20 pm
Lovely loco, Chris... I think it's what the custom car fraternity would describe as 'Phat'....
Reminds me a little of a cartoon drawing I saw of a hippo in a tutu and ballet shoes
Posted: Sat Mar 03, 2012 1:29 am
It really looks like it is loved but also taken for granted.
Taking Lennart's thoughts one step further, instead of lead shot use mercury.
Should make for interesting gyrations during sudden starts and stops.
(And would also give H & S really something to get upset about !)
Keep up the good work
Aother step forward
Posted: Sat Mar 17, 2012 6:12 am
thanks for all your great comments and ideas.
Got a bit further.I attached the front Buffer Plate and the mounting plate for the rear buffer.Now I am looking fora pair of European/German center buffer couplers.Either built them myself or have to order them from the OLD COUNTRY.....
The only other ting left to do is the window glazing,the curtains and the number plates,more on this later.
For now here are some pictures
Well,I'll be off the radar for a while have to go to Wyoming on a project and will be out of the modeling screen for a while.
Looking forward to the next round of comments
Posted: Sat Mar 17, 2012 1:21 pm
That is an ugly chunk of critter............looks absolutely great. I think you have achieved the weathered and worn effect that you were striving for.
The "FAT" one gets some friends....
Posted: Sat Jun 02, 2012 6:13 am
well I did a bit more modeling and built a few cars for my steamer.Here are
a few pictures of the whole train:
OK just realized I need to do some more "aging" on the front buffer plate
The ore car is scaled up from a paper pdf I got from a fiend in Germany.
Anyone interested in the paper kit ,send me a note and I will e mail it to you.
Built it out of card stock with a wood center and On30 trucks
this is a picture of the original
This one was built on a Fleischmann Magic Train chassis.Balsa wood floor and sides colored with aging fluid and chalk.
This one is on a regular HO chassis with coffee stir stick frame and balsa floor.Also Chalk pigment color.
My first box car.HO chassis,cardboard frame as sides clad with coffee stir sticks and colored again with pigment.
Well, I will built 3 more cars,one as a box car on an other Fleischmann Magic Train Chassis.The other 2 are one 4 axle box car and one 4 axle open gondola.These are kits from Germany,just waiting for the4 axle boogies that match the cars.
The loco and cars a bigger then my other stuff ,ergo once I get back to building a layout it will have to be in a way that can (sort of) logically support both.I have tried my luck twice in the layout department and both times built myself in to a corner.Next time I will not get close to any scenery until the track is down and everything running without any flaws.
Well enjoy and let me know what you think.