johna wrote:Andy if I build a loco for GNine then I have a kato 4 wheel chassis. For 16.5 gauge I have a number of "bec" motor bogies. I would be grateful if you show me how to do it myself.
John
Yep, if we take it gently you'll be fine. I think it was 'LBSC', the model engineer, who said something to the effect of "...on the basis that if I can do it, anyone can...". I also recall saying that I'd write something for Mike M for the Tome about generating drawings from pictures of stock taken at an angle, so this will get me onto my backside and typing.
Do you have a type of loco in mind? The suggestion of browsing the Loco Shed section is a good one if you're looking for inspiration, but if you've got a cunning plan already, then let's have a butchers.
But to get you started, here's a rough and ready attack on one of the 'Union' battery-electrics...
It's about as simple as you can get, but I can demonstrate a couple of tricks to get you started. There are other ways of doing this, but here's how I learned it all those years ago. Now ideally, you'd have front and side elevations, but that's not always possible, as anyone who's tried to photograph stuff in museums and so on will attest. And here, of course, we have only one picture.
I add a border and mark in some construction lines, following the perspective - all parallel lines will meet at the same point, and in this case there are plenty of parallel lines, so just to illustrate here are a few....
Now of course, it would help if we had some dimensions, but the catalogue doesn't give them, so, in true Gn15 style, I'll make an educated guess. I'll assume that the track gauge is 2 foot - I take verticals up and add some more verticals in that I'll need for the drawing later....
extend the verticals, and now I use another perspective trick. I mark in a line half-way between my two horizontals (as I say, this is rough and ready - I'd normally do this accurately rather than by eye). If you mark in a diagonal across the vertical at the half-way line, then drop a vertical at each point where the diagonal intersects the horizontals and repeat the process, the spacing between the verticals on the picture diminishes as the perspective lines get closer together, but represent the same actual distance. ...
okay, I could prove that mathematically, but just accept for the moment that it's true. If the track gauge is in fact two foot, then the loco is about four foot wide - 48mm in my version of G scale, and about the right proportion for a maximum width Gn15 loco - what a coincidence! If, however, the gauge is 18", in line with another loco shown in the brochure, then the loco is about 36mm wide - a decent width for a mine loco, in fact. You can take your choice.
Note that the corners are rounded, I've dropped the verticals where the edges would be if they weren't rounded off. The body-work is close to two feet high if the gauge is 2', 18" if the gauge is 18".
Now for the sides. Again, I've just done this by eye for the moment.
I've only gone halfway along, you can do the rest if you want. but we have another dimension to guess at here. The cab area comes out at about 3'6" long including all the gubbins, if this is a two-footer - if it's an 18", then we end up with 2'9" or thereabouts, which seems a bit narrow to my eye. So I'll go with two foot for now, in which case the loco is about 11'6 long and I make the wheelbase about 3'6" (I haven't shown that bit, but I will if you want), which is close enough to a Bec 34mm chassis as to make no difference, but it's a big overhang, so at this stage I'd make a box and fiddle with it until it looked right.
Hopefully, you get the basic idea...
regards
Andy A