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For discussion of the issues faced when building a model or layout - how to replicate wood, what glues to use, exactly how much weathering can a Gnat take, a good source of detailing accessories - you get the picture, I'm sure.

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Steve Bennett
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Postby Steve Bennett » Fri Apr 28, 2006 8:40 pm

michael wrote:much cheaper than the little bottle of tamiya thinner. :idea:


Tamiya thinners are very expensive, it's only made up of Isopropanol with something added to slow evaporation, I would imagine thats what Windex is made from aswell. Neat Isopropanol works fine with most acrylic paints, dries very quick too.
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Postby Racing Hippo » Fri Apr 28, 2006 9:36 pm

Steve Bennett wrote:Tamiya thinners are very expensive, it's only made up of Isopropanol with something added to slow evaporation,

Hmm... it smells notably different though. Still, if it does the job, it's certainly a lot cheaper!

Brian - Thanks for the illustrated commentary on your painting. I've yet to take a brush to my ever-growing stock of props and wagons, and I'll certainly be trying your technique on some of them.
One thing that's been stopping me is the question of "to prime or not to prime" and if so, what with? I've been told that all resin needs is soapy water... :?: :?

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Postby Simon Andrews » Fri Apr 28, 2006 9:56 pm

Windex is a window cleaning fluid readily available in grocery stores etc. on my side of the Atlantic.
......windex was the medium of choice for thinning and cleaning.


Just had a flash back to 'My big fat Greek wedding' :shock: .......The movie, not my own wedding :wink:

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Postby Sir Briand » Fri Apr 28, 2006 11:04 pm

Racing Hippo wrote:One thing that's been stopping me is the question of "to prime or not to prime" and if so, what with? I've been told that all resin needs is soapy water... :?: :?


John

I don't prime unless you call a base coat of matte black paint of some sort priming :lol: . Cleaning any plastic, resin or whitemetal casting first is important. Soapy water, with maybe a dash of vinegar (plain white not the one for chips :roll: ), and an old toothbrush works wonders for me. Some of my 7mm figures that I take out for demos have been handled umpteen times and the paint is still there.

Mark you, a large 7mm loco would need some but I don't think our stuff does.
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Postby Steve Bennett » Sat Apr 29, 2006 12:24 am

Racing Hippo wrote:One thing that's been stopping me is the question of "to prime or not to prime" and if so, what with? I've been told that all resin needs is soapy water... :?: :?


Since you raise the question John, a couple of pointers. With regard to washing, it is a good practice to wash all kits before painting, not just resin. The reason for this is to remove any grease which has transferred from your hands during assembly. In addition to this, some resin and plastic kit manufacturers use a mould release agent, which inhibits paint sticking to it securely. A good wash is needed to remove this. I dont use a mould release, so you only need to give a gentle wash, no need to scrub. I cant say what other manufacturers do use it though, if in doubt, give a gentle scrub with an old toothbrush or the like.

As far as primers are concerned, although not essential on plastic and resin, they do give a good secure base for further coats of paint to stick to. Personally, I always use a primer. The aerosol acrylic primers, intended for cars, generally give very good results. Two brands I would thoroughly recommend are those under the chain store Halfords own brand, also, the same formula, but considerably cheaper, if you can find them, produced under the Hycote label. The Plasti-kote range is also very good. Some to avoid, Tetrosyl Easy Spray, Auto Quest and surprisingly, the very common Holts range, these are designed to be applied to flat areas, with very thin coats built up gradually. Apply them to anything with raised surface detail and the paint will accumulate around the detail unless you are very very careful.
Finally a warning, DONT use a cellulose based primer on resin or plastic, it will dissolve them unless you really know what you are doing.
Hope this helps some, dont be afraid to ask if you want any more detail.
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Postby Racing Hippo » Sat Apr 29, 2006 6:44 am

Fantastic advice, guys - thanks!
And showing two diametrically opposite opinions, which is hard as I respect the both of yous' modelling creds :?

Rather than fill up Brian's thread with more off-topic discussion, I've started a new thread specifically on the subject

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Postby Steve Bennett » Sat Apr 29, 2006 9:52 am

Racing Hippo wrote:Fantastic advice, guys - thanks!
And showing two diametrically opposite opinions, which is hard as I respect the both of yous' modelling creds :?


:lol: I'm sure there are many other ways of painting out there aswell, hopefully more will take part and post in the new thread. What works for one person, may not for another. The best thing to do is to use other peoples techniques, solely as a starting point, experiment with some unimportant or disposeable pieces and see what works for you and develop from there. You will also find there are many more different techniques, from those with a background in other branches of modelling, military, wargaming etc. Mixing different methods, like washes, drybrushing and the like together will produce some interesting results too, have a play is the best advice I can give :)
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Postby Steve Bennett » Sat Apr 29, 2006 11:09 am

Well, one thing Brian and I do have in common :) is the use of cheap acrylic craft paints.
Image
Personally, I dont use these on loco's or anything that is handled a lot, but for scenic work they are excellent, come in a vast array of colours and available from numerous sources, it appears on a worldwide basis. Equally suitable for brush painting, or for spraying if thinned with water or for quicker drying, windshield washer fluid, never tried Isopropanol with these, dont know why :)
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Postby scott b » Sat Apr 29, 2006 12:33 pm

Yes, I have a large (and getting larger) basket full of those paints. Everytime the local Walmart or craft store puts them on sale I pick up more. It`s not like they are expensive to start with but they can often be found on sale for 89 cents each, and the choice of colours is staggering.
I don`t use it as a base coat on my trains but for rust and highlights they are just the thing. I do know a few guys who use nothing but these paints for everything and they get some fine results so it`s not the tools it`s how they are used :wink:

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Postby dr5euss » Fri May 05, 2006 11:37 pm

Brian,

I came across these whilst searching for a truffle hunting sow - they may be of use:

http://www.legacystation.com/PapoFarmAnimals.htm

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Postby Sir Briand » Sat May 06, 2006 1:42 am

Thanks George. I might just give them a phone next week and try and find out what size their critters are.

Image

I just checked Porky and Bess to see if they had a makers mark on them. "Made in Hong Kong" did not help :roll: . One is definitely a he and t'other a she :) . Got them at a flea market for 25 cents each. They came pink but I painted them to look like Gloucester Saddlebacks - of course :D .
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Postby michael » Sat May 06, 2006 2:57 am

Brian, that picture has such a lot going on the layout is getting more interesting with each post.

regards Michael
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Postby Sir Briand » Sun May 07, 2006 6:06 pm

Went to "The Miniature Enthusiasts of the Guelph Area" 23rd Annual Miniature Show and Sale this morning :roll: . Mostly charming white haired ladies, 1" scale bits and pieces and some fascinating dioramas or set pieces. On one of the "For Sale" tables I found what I was sure was a 1:24 item. Clyde, who I had brought along with me, said it was so I got it for a song.

Image

Now the beauty of this was that it was furnished :D .

Image

and here is Fred enjoying the furnishings :lol: . Actually, the pieces are set up for the Lady of the Manor to have her afternoon tea :) . Some of the detail in these bits and pieces is unbelievable.
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Postby DCRfan » Mon May 08, 2006 5:53 am

Them from the big house must have lived in the tropics at some time. Nice bamboo furniture.
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Postby dana » Mon May 08, 2006 6:21 am

DCRfan Posted: Sun May 07, 2006 9:53 pm Post subject:

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Them from the big house must have lived in the tropics at some time. Nice bamboo furniture




http://printmini.com/printables/ph.shtml has tiger rugs and zebra skins to go with her ladyships and yourlordships livingroom.
DANA GILL CEO OF LAKELouisetramway(proposed GN15 )
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Postby DCRfan » Mon May 08, 2006 6:46 am

dana wrote:http://printmini.com/printables/ph.shtml has tiger rugs and zebra skins to go with her ladyships and yourlordships livingroom.


Nice one, a whole new meaning to Tiger Stripes on the front/back of our locos. :lol:
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Postby DCRfan » Mon May 08, 2006 8:03 am

DCRfan wrote:Nice one, a whole new meaning to Tiger Stripes on the front/back of our locos. :lol:


I just printed the Tiger unfortunately it came out the size of a domestic Kittycat not a Tiger :cry: :cry: but have no fear, we have the technology.

In the interests of safety we must have Tiger Stripes on Gnat
Image

But you can never find a Zebra crossing when you want one.
Image
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Postby Steve Bennett » Mon May 08, 2006 9:00 am

DCRfan wrote:I just printed the Tiger unfortunately it came out the size of a domestic Kittycat not a Tiger :cry: :cry: but have no fear, we have the technology.

In the interests of safety we must have Tiger Stripes on Gnat


:lol: keeps it warm in the shed at night too, makes it much easier to start on a cold winter morning :)
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Postby michael » Mon May 08, 2006 2:56 pm

Brian, what a great buy, I love the furnishings So now you have to make an extension to the layout with the line coming along side the conservatory, or is that another layout with a garden focus :?: :twisted:

michael
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Postby Sir Briand » Mon May 08, 2006 4:12 pm

michael wrote: or is that another layout with a garden focus :?: :twisted: michael


As the major construction on Upton is nearly ended, but the fine detailing can go on and on :roll: , the greenhouse will play a part in the, as yet unknown, next round :lol:. Also want to work a turntable into it :lol:. Ideally should be another part of the Upton Estate. Then I can use the same stock and people :twisted: .
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Postby dana » Thu May 11, 2006 5:08 pm

DCRfan wrote:
DCRfan wrote:Nice one, a whole new meaning to Tiger Stripes on the front/back of our locos. :lol:




But you can never find a Zebra crossing when you want one.
Image



try this for a zebra crossing http://printmini.com/printables/rugs/rugz.shtml :P
DANA GILL CEO OF LAKELouisetramway(proposed GN15 )

RED DWARF SPACE PORT RR( GN 15)

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Postby Sir Briand » Sun May 21, 2006 7:09 pm

Wandered into the liquor store at one of the small resort towns on Lake Huron on Friday and discovered this wonderful :roll: wine. For some strange reason immediately thought of DCRfan and Christophe :lol: so had to buy a bottle.

Image

"Warm summer days and cool evenings have produced a wine with strong gooseberry aromas and gentle hints of cat."

Paul, it was very drinkable you will be glad to know and no hint of cat . :o
Sir BRIANd :wink:

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Wine

Postby Blackcloud Railways » Sun May 21, 2006 7:23 pm

Always been wary of French wine which claims to be Chateau this or the other. . .

Chat = cat. Eau = water. Chat + Eau = Cat Water

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Altering figures

Postby Sir Briand » Mon Jul 03, 2006 9:06 pm

When I built my Hornet I had the driver facing forwards. I found this limited the use of the loco as it only looked good going forwards :roll: . I decided to apply a liberal dose of ACC loosener and change the seating to sideways. This meant that Harry, the driver, had to change the position of his arms :shock: In the past I have found that keeping the bits in position whilst adhesive set was often a challenge. Today it dawned on me that by drilling a hole into the amputation stumps, inserting a piece of wire and dropping some ACC on after setting the parts in the correct position, life would be much simpler. It is :D .
Image
The wire in position and a liberal dose of ACC applied.
Image
The gap filled with green putty.
Image
I expect that the figure surgeons out there have already figured out this is the way to do it but if you hadn't I hope this will help.
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Postby Insanity prawn boy » Mon Jul 24, 2006 3:35 pm

Might be of interest on the stable theme... This one is down in a river vally, deep in the heart of Exmoor:
Image
Image
Image
Image
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