Realistic track

For discussion of the issues faced when building a model or layout - how to replicate wood, what glues to use, exactly how much weathering can a Gnat take, a good source of detailing accessories - you get the picture, I'm sure.

Moderator: GnATTERbox Moderators

howard jones
True GnATTERbox
True GnATTERbox
Posts: 27
Joined: Mon Jun 17, 2013 4:38 pm
Location: Oldham Lancs
Interests: Big scale model railways - limited space

Realistic track

Postby howard jones » Sat Dec 14, 2013 4:39 pm

Hi chaps.
I am about to start a new layout ( 1:24 ) using Peco 16mm n.g. track but I want to try and create a better / more spaced out look of the sleepers, probably by making a pile of wooden ones / removing some of the Peco plastic sleepers / webbing etc.
I saw a thread on here a while ago where one of the members did this and used what looked like staples for the spikes ? The finish looked good and if anyone can enlighten me on the process, I would much appreciate it.
Howard the Brush

User avatar
rue_d_etropal
Millegniumer
Millegniumer
Posts: 2166
Joined: Fri Oct 07, 2005 4:55 pm
Location: Accrington and sometimes France
Interests: France, any narrow/minmum gauge 40cm,50cm , 60cm

Postby rue_d_etropal » Sat Dec 14, 2013 9:19 pm

have seen something here but hand building track does not interest me. When Peco introduce 016.5 track they produced a kit to concert setrack points. basically some wrap around sleepers. Have not tried them. I find just removing alternative sleepers is OK for me, and using plenty of ballast. only think that might persuade me would be realistic portable track(at a realistic price) . Something to think about using 3D printing but suspect it would not be cheap.
Simon Dawson
(Simon D.),
Narrow gauge Francophile interested in 1m, 60cm,50cm , 40cm and smaller gauges . Build in scales from 1/6th to 1/24th. Also 1/32nd and 1/35th using 16.5mm track to represent 50cm and 60cm gauges.
http://www.rue-d-etropal.com

Artizen
Seasoned Campaigner
Seasoned Campaigner
Posts: 399
Joined: Thu Apr 15, 2010 12:52 pm
Location: Western New Zealand
Interests: Gn15 (1:24), 7/8ths (1:12) and 0n28 (1:43)

Postby Artizen » Sat Dec 14, 2013 10:28 pm

My layout uses Peco code 100 flextrack with every fourth web removed and timber sleepers in the correct scale inserted. These are spiked using Old Pullman spikes I have had for years. Once the track has been laid in its final position and the glue is hard, remove all the plastic rubbish. I now stain the timber instead of painting it, looks far better in my opinion and is much faster to do. I do this before I construct the track. The obvious advantage is that your track keeps its gauge but is still flexible.
Ian Hodgkiss
The Steamy Pudding (in progress)
West of Worcester (in progress)
Waikikamukau Sawmilling (planned)
Brisbane, Australia

User avatar
Adrian
Demi-Millegniumer
Demi-Millegniumer
Posts: 718
Joined: Mon Apr 27, 2009 8:18 am
Location: Melbourne Australia
Interests: model railways including Gn15

Postby Adrian » Sun Dec 15, 2013 2:21 am

G'day Howard
Looking at your post, are you planning to use 32mm gauge track with 200 code rail or 16.5mm gauge using 100 code rail ?

If the larger. I would probably not bother with the made up track to start with but build it from scratch. Peco have a lot of components available including rail, chairs/rail fittings and plastic sleepers if you want them.

By building from scratch you have the chance to customize the track by widening the gauge slightly on curves and adding check rails etc.

With the large code rail a rail bender would be a good investment if you have a lot of track to lay while a suitable set of gauges (which could be homemade in hard timber ) are essential.

If using 16.5mm gauge I would use standard track (100 code) as Ian does.
For some unknown reason, at my local hobby store a packet of rail is more expensive that the equivalent length of flex track !
The rail could be held down to wooden sleepers using track spikes
http://www.micromark.com/track-and-trac ... plies.html
Also on eBay:
http://www.ebay.com/sch/sis.html?_kw=HO ... w+3%2F8%22

There is a discussion on another forum which could help (hinder) you in your choice of method:-
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/t/30657.aspx

Hoping that I haven't given you too many options but track laying is a big topic and no single answer is the suitable for everybody.

Cheers
Adrian Hoad
I might be daft but not stupid.

User avatar
scott b
Demi-Millegniumer
Demi-Millegniumer
Posts: 601
Joined: Tue Jan 27, 2004 9:55 pm
Location: Ontario
Interests: Cycling, Terry Pratchet books

Postby scott b » Sun Dec 15, 2013 6:19 am

In the past I have used peco code 100 flextrack, removed about 1/3 of all the ties then cut all the connecting hidden web bits off. I then pair up the remaining ties glue them together making a single wider tie and space them a scale foot or whatever you want the spacing to be. Then you have the more custom look to the track but still have the ease and convenience of flextrack. Most of the layouts built on this site tend to bury the ties in dirt, ballast or grass, ending up hidden anyway.
Scott B

Artizen
Seasoned Campaigner
Seasoned Campaigner
Posts: 399
Joined: Thu Apr 15, 2010 12:52 pm
Location: Western New Zealand
Interests: Gn15 (1:24), 7/8ths (1:12) and 0n28 (1:43)

Postby Artizen » Sun Dec 15, 2013 6:47 am

Found my photos to show how I modified Peco code 100 track:

Points (electrofrog)
Image


Trackwork
Image
Ian Hodgkiss

The Steamy Pudding (in progress)

West of Worcester (in progress)

Waikikamukau Sawmilling (planned)

Brisbane, Australia

User avatar
600mm
True GnATTERbox
True GnATTERbox
Posts: 43
Joined: Mon Mar 06, 2006 3:15 pm
Location: Stülow/ Germany
Interests: Narrow Gauge, Photography

Postby 600mm » Sun Dec 15, 2013 9:22 am

Michael
AHOI of the beautiful Baltic Sea-coast

https://modellbahnblog.wordpress.com/

User avatar
Bilco
Demi-Millegniumer
Demi-Millegniumer
Posts: 985
Joined: Mon Oct 29, 2007 3:55 pm
Location: Woodstock, Oxfordshire
Interests: 7mm & 16mm NG, Gn15

Postby Bilco » Sun Dec 15, 2013 3:31 pm

Hi Howard,

I posted in the thread on Watts' about how I modified Peco track http://forum.gn15.info/viewtopic.php?t= ... ight=watts

You just need to lay in a stock of appropriate Plastruct sections and a guillotine!
Bill

If at first you don't succeed, cheat.
Too soon old, too late smart.

https://sites.google.com/site/myoldlayouts/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/149926300@N07/albums


Return to “Modelling Matters”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 4 guests