(F) Mordred -- O9

Minimum gauge modelling in other scales.

Moderator: GnATTERbox Moderators

Ryan
True GnATTERbox
True GnATTERbox
Posts: 26
Joined: Sat Sep 30, 2006 8:07 pm
Location: St Erth, Cornwall

(F) Mordred -- O9

Postby Ryan » Thu May 10, 2007 5:59 pm

Does anyone have any experience with the Blackdog Mining 'Mordred' loco? What's the minimum radius curves it can get round pulling a rake of wagons? And how well does the Bachmann trolley chassis run?

Im planning an O-14 layout but am thinking about having a continuous run of O-9 track on a lower level, so there's always something running so I need a decent running chassis.

User avatar
Steve Bennett
Millegniumer
Millegniumer
Posts: 4512
Joined: Sat May 17, 2003 12:55 am
Location: Exeter, UK
Interests: railways?

Postby Steve Bennett » Thu May 10, 2007 8:50 pm

How tight do you want to go Ryan :) . For the loco chassis and still being able to couple wagons to it, I would recommend a minimum radius of 6inches/150mm, tighter than this and the gears start to bind and any couplings would be right at their limit. The Bachmann Brill Trolley mechanism I find is very good and copes with quite long periods of continuous running without any problems.

As a test, I got one of my Mordreds out of the stock box and tried it on a small pizza track. The base is a foot square (30 x 30cm) and the radius of the track 5 inches (125mm). It ran perfectly after first running a graphite pencil over the track and this is the first time it has been run in a couple of years at least. The closer view will hopefully show that the couplings are straining, but having said that, it is running in both directions without any trouble and no derailments, even when pushing the wagons.

Image
Image

Hopefully somebody else will be able to give more feedback, obviously my view of the kit is going to be a little biased :)
Steve Bennett
Sidelines
http://www.pepper7.com

andrew blackwell
True GnATTERbox
True GnATTERbox
Posts: 31
Joined: Tue Dec 06, 2005 3:58 pm
Location: County Durham, England
Interests: Minimum gauge, Narrow gauge, Mountain biking

Postby andrew blackwell » Fri May 11, 2007 9:48 am

I'm a fan of the Morded kit, thought I was the only one! Built one as standard, and the other modified to look more like Rattys ICL2.
Never actually got round to painting either of them.

The ICL2 ran on a Farish prairie chassis (since robbed for another project) so it's a conversion worth considering as the chassis run superb and can be found new easily.

The standard Mordred runs very well indeed on the Brill chassis; much better than expected. Will run all day long no bother. Stops and starts with ease. I highly recommend it as with all Steve's other kits. Can be built virtually straight out the box, no cleaning up required. I modified mine to have just one radiator grill at the one end, panelling the other end over with planks in line with the rest of the bodywork, since that was more like the orginal ICL1.

Andrew
Last edited by andrew blackwell on Mon Jul 21, 2008 9:04 am, edited 1 time in total.

User avatar
Steve Bennett
Millegniumer
Millegniumer
Posts: 4512
Joined: Sat May 17, 2003 12:55 am
Location: Exeter, UK
Interests: railways?

Postby Steve Bennett » Fri May 11, 2007 11:02 am

It will also make a nice contrast with the RCL locos due to its size.


It will certainly do that, here she is with a Roy Link Ruston :)

Image

The couplings are the ones I use on most of my stock, the DG Coupling, from here: http://www.modelsignals.com/couplings_frame.htm, I use the 009 (Type D) for my 0n9 stock and 14mm gauge. For a continuous run where you just let it run, simple link and pins will serve you just as well though.
Steve Bennett

Sidelines

http://www.pepper7.com

Ryan
True GnATTERbox
True GnATTERbox
Posts: 26
Joined: Sat Sep 30, 2006 8:07 pm
Location: St Erth, Cornwall

Postby Ryan » Fri May 11, 2007 11:09 am

I asked about the couplings because I'm thinking about using them for the O-14 stock, as it's going to involve shunting hopefully so a hands free un-coupling system is needed and I've been thinking about the DG couplings for awhile, seem to get good reviews on them and for the price as well you can't complain. But I didn't know what radius they could go round so this thread has actually answered another of my questions.

User avatar
Steve Bennett
Millegniumer
Millegniumer
Posts: 4512
Joined: Sat May 17, 2003 12:55 am
Location: Exeter, UK
Interests: railways?

Postby Steve Bennett » Fri May 11, 2007 11:59 am

I have been using DG Couplings for 15 years now and not found another that comes close for small narrow gauge use. So I wouldn't hesitate to recommend them, I can provide you with instructions on assembly if you go this route, the instructions that come with them are hard work and not the easiest way to assemble them.

Before the Kadee fans jump on me :) I use Kadee's on US outline HO and wouldn't dream of using anything else, but for Narrow Gauge, the DG is superior and with better operation, the only negative is you need to assemble them.
Steve Bennett

Sidelines

http://www.pepper7.com

User avatar
Steve Bennett
Millegniumer
Millegniumer
Posts: 4512
Joined: Sat May 17, 2003 12:55 am
Location: Exeter, UK
Interests: railways?

Postby Steve Bennett » Sun May 13, 2007 11:00 am

how big would this loco be in Gn15 :?:


The original Ravenglass loco is 15 feet long, for the model I shortened it by two feet, it was never intended to be a scale model, just in the style of. The second of this style of loco built at Ravenglass, ICL No2, was shorter still at just under 11 feet long.
Steve Bennett

Sidelines

http://www.pepper7.com


Return to “Size doesn't matter”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests