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1/16 CAT-style forklift truck on rails

Posted: Sat Feb 02, 2013 10:13 pm
by mad gerald
G'evening all,

modelling in 1/16 scale was fun, especially for my eyes and fingers ... ;D

Prototype gauge this time is 430 mm (approx. 17"), which makes a model gauge of 26,8 mm in IIIf (NEM) - very close to modell gauge of 26,7 mm in IIf (NEM) in scale 1/22,5. Prototype gauges of 430 mm have been used i. e. for mining purposes in Austria. Choosing a prototype gauge of 430 mm gives me the opportunity to build a 1/16 scale Ruhrthaler G 9 loco as well, which ran on 430 mm gauge as a matter of fact.

Actually I built a cardboard prototype of a speeder/rail tractor, based on an old electric Caterpillar® forklift truck. This kind of forklift trucks have usually a gauge in a range from 350 to 500 mm (driving wheels), making this kind of conversion authentic. Even in reality there have been conversions like this, i. e. a STILL® electric truck at Speyerdorf Feldbahn or i. e. the Volk® electric truck in austria, running at Wetterin (drinking water service tunnel).

My mock up is built from grey cardboard and printed white cardboard. The drawings I made in MS PowerPoint® ... as usually. This is not a model, just built for proportion checks and for "get the right feeling". The modell itself will be build from styrene. The sleepers on the pics are the ones for another gauge (16,25 mm = 10.25" prototype gauge) and will be replaced by prototypical ones ...

Cheers

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Posted: Sun Feb 03, 2013 9:09 am
by Simon Andrews
Nice idea Gerald. The loco really looks the part.

Simon.

Posted: Mon Feb 04, 2013 7:08 am
by henrix72se
Hi Gerald,

Great idea !!

I could see a little factory scene in front of me with tight curves and a string of small wagons following it, loaded with boxes.

Those folding doors are a great way to hide exits or fake ends.

Is there anyone making switches in germany for 26.7mm gauge ? I read about the gauge before, but was a while back now.

/Henrik

Posted: Mon Feb 04, 2013 9:34 am
by mad gerald
Simon Andrews wrote:Nice idea Gerald. The loco really looks the part.

... thanks ...

Henrik,

henrix72se wrote:Great idea !!

I could see a little factory scene in front of me with tight curves and a string of small wagons following it, loaded with boxes.

Those folding doors are a great way to hide exits or fake ends.

... thanks for dropping in and your feedback ... :D

henrix72se wrote:Is there anyone making switches in germany for 26.7mm gauge ? I read about the gauge before, but was a while back now.

... unfortunately not (or at least not at any reasonable price), so it's DIY again ... but I started wondering, if it would be an opportunity changing the gauge (again) to 32mm ... ??? Any suggestions about cheap driving units (or powered bogeys) and bashable rolling stock? What did you use motorizing your B360?

Cheers

Posted: Mon Feb 04, 2013 10:44 am
by henrix72se
See this page, there is several to choose from ;;

http://www.ets-trains.com/sekce.php?id=22

I did use #243. Note, there is two pages.

The track is also good, specially the switches.

/Henrik

Posted: Mon Feb 04, 2013 11:46 am
by KEG
For 32mm gauge I am quie happy with IP Engineering parts.
I use Battery / RC of course. Cambrian Models have some motorizing parts as well http://cambrianmodels.co.uk/16intro.html

Regner 30/32mm drives migt be available seperately as well. But I am not sure. For some projects even old Faller Train drives work.

Have Fun

Juergen

Posted: Mon Feb 04, 2013 12:23 pm
by henrix72se
KEG wrote:For 32mm gauge I am quie happy with IP Engineering parts.
I use Battery / RC of course. Cambrian Models have some motorizing parts as well http://cambrianmodels.co.uk/16intro.html

Regner 30/32mm drives migt be available seperately as well. But I am not sure. For some projects even old Faller Train drives work.

Have Fun

Juergen

Depends on if you want battery or track power..

IP Eng does only RC/Battery versions as far as I know.

/Henrik

Posted: Mon Feb 04, 2013 12:43 pm
by KEG
It´s not very complicated to mount Regner pickups to a chassis.
IP Eng. sells you isolated wheels if you ask for them.

Have Fun

Juergen

Posted: Tue Feb 05, 2013 9:23 am
by mad gerald
Both suggestions seem to be good sources ... but this conversion of an electric forklift truck has an over all length of only 75mm :shock: in 1/16 scale ... so a common driving unit will not work, especially regarding the dimensions of length and wheelbase ...

Cheers

Posted: Tue Feb 05, 2013 10:06 am
by henrix72se
mad gerald wrote:Both suggestions seem to be good sources ... but this conversion of an electric forklift truck has an over all length of only 75mm :shock: in 1/16 scale ... so a common driving unit will not work, especially regarding the dimensions of length and wheelbase ...

Cheers

Below one is very small, why not just make the battery box a bit bigger so the motor fits.. Just my two cents.

http://www.ets-trains.com/detailzbozi.php?IDZbozi=698

/Henrik

Posted: Tue Feb 05, 2013 10:45 am
by KEG
Well, Mad Gerald never finished anything or got something running in years anyway. So the advise or decision is not too important.

But regarding a chassis for a small 1 : 16 model, 1 : 45 ETS wheels might be a bit thin. Suitable 16mm scale wheels might be a better choice.

Have Fun

Juergen

Posted: Tue Feb 05, 2013 11:54 am
by mad gerald
KEG wrote:Well, Mad Gerald never finished anything or got something running in years anyway. So the advise or decision is not too important.


... :D :D ... The pot calling the kettle black ... :D :D ...

Posted: Sun Feb 10, 2013 8:38 pm
by mad gerald
G'evening all,

to prove that this is going to be serious :), I did some other testing.

The forklift truck on rails will be powered by a Bachmann© On30 unit, regauged like the other On30 units used by my 1/22,5 Feldbahn vehicles of gauge IIf. And I tested the tightest possible radius as well: minimum radius would be approx. 150mm in 1/16 scale, representing approx. 2500mm in reality.

To get these 45° angles of the side panels seamless I tought of treating the styrene with hot air and bending it over some strip of wood, but I found aonther method: pushing the sheet of styrene flat over the buzz saw, with the saw blade adjusted that kinda low, that it is only cutting a slot/gap from underneath in the styrene.

After that the styrene can easily be folded and glued, but it isn't possible to use acetone for glueing in this case. Acetone will dilute the styrene immediately along the wafer thin slot/gap area.

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Cheers

Re: 1/16 CAT-style forklift truck on rails

Posted: Mon Feb 11, 2013 10:24 am
by AndyA
mad gerald wrote:My mock up is built from grey cardboard and printed white cardboard. The drawings I made in MS PowerPoint® ... as usually. This is not a model, just built for proportion checks and for "get the right feeling". The modell itself will be build from styrene. The sleepers on the pics are the ones for another gauge (16,25 mm = 10.25" prototype gauge) and will be replaced by prototypical ones ...


It looks good so far. I missed this before I went away, otherwise I would have asked at the start - would you part with the drawings for the mock-up? I was going to use one of my ferry loco's for my O9 shunting puzzle, but this might be more appropriate. If I come up with a credible wire-mesh wagon body to match, I'll swap?

regards
Andy A

Re: 1/16 CAT-style forklift truck on rails

Posted: Sat Feb 16, 2013 7:10 pm
by mad gerald
Andy,

AndyA wrote: ... It looks good so far. I missed this before I went away, otherwise I would have asked at the start - would you part with the drawings for the mock-up? I was going to use one of my ferry loco's for my O9 shunting puzzle, but this might be more appropriate. If I come up with a credible wire-mesh wagon body to match, I'll swap?

... as I'm not dropping in here frequently, I read your question just this very moment and have sent you a PM ...

Cheers

Posted: Sun Mar 10, 2013 7:46 pm
by mad gerald
G'evening all,

little by little makes at least some progress … ;D ... so I was able to make a base plate and a lot of pieces from styrene shape strips.

Apart from that I received from a modelling mate in Sweden (Henrik) a pair of couplings (prototype: supply railway in Lainz/Vienna) for testing purposes, which are manufactured (3D-printing) at shapeways. As the radii I'm going to use are very uncommon tight, these couplings should enable the rail tractor to pull AND push wagons. The coupling rods are going to be shortened to fit, when I figured out their necessary length ...

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Cheers

Posted: Sun Mar 10, 2013 11:09 pm
by DuffieldBank
mad gerald wrote:G'evening all,

to prove that this is going to be serious :), I did some other testing.

The forklift truck on rails will be powered by a Bachmann© On30 unit, regauged like the other On30 units used by my 1/22,5 Feldbahn vehicles of gauge IIf. And I tested the tightest possible radius as well: minimum radius would be approx. 150mm in 1/16 scale, representing approx. 2500mm in reality.

To get these 45° angles of the side panels seamless I tought of treating the styrene with hot air and bending it over some strip of wood, but I found aonther method: pushing the sheet of styrene flat over the buzz saw, with the saw blade adjusted that kinda low, that it is only cutting a slot/gap from underneath in the styrene.

After that the styrene can easily be folded and glued, but it isn't possible to use acetone for glueing in this case. Acetone will dilute the styrene immediately along the wafer thin slot/gap area.

Image

Image

Cheers


I think I see a printie for The Tome! Would you care to share with the class?

Cheers,

Chris

Posted: Thu Mar 14, 2013 9:25 am
by mad gerald
Chris,

DuffieldBank wrote: I think I see a printie for The Tome! Would you care to share with the class?


... I did not complete the drawings of this mock up as a file (only main body work), the "missing parts" I had drawn separately by hand on coloured areas of the printout. So it would be unsuitable as a printie in The Tome ... sorry ...

Cheers

Posted: Mon Apr 15, 2013 7:01 pm
by mad gerald
G'day all,

In the meantime I was dabbling with diffrent ideas and made several approches regarding the construction of the chassis. I also tested if it is possible to cut off the corners in a 45° angle with a buzz saw, when all parts are already mounted together. However I don't like the current construction (middle of pic) that much, as it appears to me as too coarse, even most of it will be hidden. Have to think it over and make another approach ... :roll:

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Cheers

Posted: Mon Apr 22, 2013 7:28 pm
by mad gerald
G'day all,

My last chassis seemed too oversized to me, so I built a new one which matches my idea and corresponds with the prototype. Again I solely used styrene sheet and profiles, glued together with acetone. The massive sidebars will make it easy to mount the side sheet "metal", which will be true to scale and therefore quite thin. The rear part of this battery-powered-former-forklift-now-on-rails is, where the edges of the "sidebars" had been cut off.

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Cheers

Posted: Sun Apr 28, 2013 3:49 pm
by mad gerald
G'day all,

I glued a groundplate to the chassis as well as some square styrene tubes. The latter will allow better adjustment of following parts, especially of the side panels, which have to be cut very precisely and also have to be pushed flat over the buzz saw, with the saw blade adjusted that kinda low, that it is only cutting a slot/gap from underneath in the styrene to fold the 45° angles in the entrance/exit area.

The lower part of the fork lift mechanism of the prototype is mounted to the frontplate. A part of that mechanism has to be build too for the model as the "buffer beam" is mounted on it.

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Back
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Cheers

Posted: Fri May 03, 2013 1:57 pm
by mad gerald
G'day all,

In comparison with CAD, 3D-printing or even 3D-scanning my method may appear to be out out fashion with the ark ... ;) ... but it works.

My MS PowerPoint® drawings are printed on self adhesive label, preferably easy to remove - without sticky residue. To get that in the rear part of the side panels I turned the saw blade down, only approx. 0,25 mm poking out. Then I moved the side panel (0,5 mm) flat (mind your fingers!) over the buzz saw, folded up the area behind the notch and gave some acetone in the noth with a paint brush. When the acetone has evaporated and the styrene has set again it stays remaining in that new position and the notch has almost vanished.

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The current state:

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Cheers

Posted: Fri May 03, 2013 2:17 pm
by henrix72se
Nice !!

/Henrik

Posted: Mon May 13, 2013 8:12 am
by mad gerald
G'day all,

henrix72se wrote:Nice !!

... thx ... :D

Meanwhile I glued some styrene parts to the front, where the fork lift mechanism is mounted to the prototype. The opening where a hydraulic tube is lead out to operate the hydraulic mechanism at the prototype I covered on the modell with round "sheet metal" (styrene) and imitated a welding line around it with some putty. Using styrene sheet with a thickness of 0,25 mm I carefully glued (with acetone) a skirt around the lower part. Next will be the inner service panels hiding the electrics and mechanics, followed by the left over fork lift mechanism (where the buffer is mounted to) and the seat and it's sub-construction ... and bits and bobs ...

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Cheers

Posted: Fri Jun 07, 2013 11:03 am
by mad gerald
G'day all,

Only a little progress to report: In the meantime I almost finished the "firewall". The opening on the left (in driving direction) for the steering linkage (on prototype) has to be closed. Therefore I'm gonna simulate some welded sheet metal (styrene with welding bead from putty).

The service panels are mounted with screws from brass (blackened) with dimensions AF 1,3, M 0,8x2

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Cheers