Romney's 'Scooter' in O9

Minimum gauge modelling in other scales.

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Colin Peake
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Romney's 'Scooter' in O9

Postby Colin Peake » Fri Feb 22, 2013 9:46 pm

When Allen Law launched his 'Minimum Gauge Models' range the one that caught my eye was the RH&DR 'Scooter' to fit a Kato mechanism. The Scooter, or PW2, has been an item of Romney stock that I've known about for years, my late 1970s guidebook to the line shows it at Hythe next to one of the famous Pacifics.

I only met the machine (I hesitate to say 'locomotive') once, on it's only trip away from home to date, to the Kirklees Light Railway in September 2011. I will endeavour to upload some pictures I took on that occasion soon.

The MG Models kit includes a number of compromises, some can be overcome to a degree but I think that you just have to accept that this isn't going to create a fully accurate rendition and just get on with it.. I have made several alterations and additions to enhance the kit as it comes. Sorry there are no in progress shots, I just wanted get on and build.

The model, my 1970s guidebook, and a useful photo downloaded from the RH&DR PWay loco Facebook group (yes, really!)
Image

A closer view of the model, the biggest compromise of them all is the wheel positions, they should be right at the ends of the frame, the real machine is built on a former 4w coach chassis:
Image

Head on view. The handrail is one of my additions, as are the buffers, a bargain find at a recent exhibition:
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Side view, I replaced the etched grille with a finer mesh from the scap box (dating back to an old MTK kit eons ago). I've added strips to the edges of the roof, and along the bottom of the cab sides, to represent the door sliders on the real machine. I've scratchbuilt an exhaust from brass wire and tube, the real thing seems to have one formed from plumbing parts...:
Image

There are still a few jobs to do, but I think most of the soldering and burnt fingers stage is out of the way.

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Postby Simon Andrews » Sat Feb 23, 2013 12:54 pm

Very nice work Colin. Your modifications have worked well.

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Postby Glen A » Sat Feb 23, 2013 8:11 pm

What a neat little machine.
You have done a nice job of building it. 8)
Should look great on your layout.

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Postby Colin Peake » Sat Feb 23, 2013 11:13 pm

Thanks Simon and Glen, haven't had a chance to do anything more today, hopefully will be able to find some time tomorrow.

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Postby Si » Mon Feb 25, 2013 9:37 am

Lovely little model Colin. I almost forked out for one at Warley the other year but then Allan stuck the Lister in front of me and I had to have that instead.


The MG Models kit includes a number of compromises, some can be overcome to a degree but I think that you just have to accept that this isn't going to create a fully accurate rendition and just get on with it..


Yep, I view some of the MGM kits more as advanced 'scratch-aid' kits than complete models - given how very inexpensive they are (both for body and chassis) I can forgive them for missing some detail, but at the same time they do form a very good basis for detailing the basic form.
They also score highly from the speed at which they allow you to get up and running when first trying O9.

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Postby demaine22 » Mon Feb 25, 2013 10:15 am

What you have done looks great Colin.

I don't know a great amount about the prototype, but your alterations and additions look very neat and 'finish' the model off a little more!

Wish I had the ability to solder kits together...I don't even have an iron available at present!
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Postby Simon Andrews » Mon Feb 25, 2013 1:18 pm

Bought a MG Models Classic Diesel kit at Shepton to conquor my fear of soldering!

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Postby Colin Peake » Mon Feb 25, 2013 3:15 pm

Si wrote:Yep, I view some of the MGM kits more as advanced 'scratch-aid' kits than complete models - given how very inexpensive they are (both for body and chassis) I can forgive them for missing some detail, but at the same time they do form a very good basis for detailing the basic form.
They also score highly from the speed at which they allow you to get up and running when first trying O9.


I think that is a fair way of thinking Si, I take the same view myself and I'm sure that Allen wouldn't be offended! The range now available is actually quite a broad church, from genuine 'miniature' coaching stock that needs a Greenly 'Atlantic' at the head to full-on minimum gauge stuff.

demaine22 wrote:What you have done looks great Colin.

I don't know a great amount about the prototype, but your alterations and additions look very neat and 'finish' the model off a little more!

Wish I had the ability to solder kits together...I don't even have an iron available at present!


Thanks, I must get the prototype shots uploaded soon :D An iron is a bit of a prerequisite for soldering, doesn't have to be anything fancy, I've used my Antex (25w?), 188 degree solder and flux paste to built what you see so far.

Simon Andrews wrote:Bought a MG Models Classic Diesel kit at Shepton to conquor my fear of soldering!


A fine choice, there's something of 'Redgauntlet' in that kit, but it is a touch bigger, which is no bad thing. Good luck!

Today I've been tinkering with the 'Scooter', making a load to fit in the back to hide part of the chassis, and making headlights from something quite unexpected. Pics son.

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Postby Si » Mon Feb 25, 2013 3:36 pm

Simon Andrews wrote:Bought a MG Models Classic Diesel kit at Shepton to conquor my fear of soldering!

Simon.


That was the first brass kit that I've soldered together. Found it very nice to do.

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Postby WaterleyShunter » Mon Feb 25, 2013 3:56 pm

You don't necessarily have to solder an etched brass kit. It is possible to use Superglue instead, but this might not be so effective.

Perhaps use some superglue to spot-tack parts in place to keep them still when soldering up.

Just a few thoughts,

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Postby Brack » Mon Feb 25, 2013 5:46 pm

making headlights from something quite unexpected


you mean NOT from Dapol kit parts? that is unexpected :)

(most things I build have a bit fo dapol somewhere - my water tower manages to contain a bit of 04 buffer shank and a Pug buffer head in it)

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Postby Si » Mon Feb 25, 2013 7:38 pm

WaterleyShunter wrote:You don't necessarily have to solder an etched brass kit. It is possible to use Superglue instead, but this might not be so effective.



Yep, Alan, who makes these kits, super glues all of his rather than soldering them. And his stock gets lugged around many shows where plenty of people handle it so it must be able to take the punishment.

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Postby Colin Peake » Mon Feb 25, 2013 8:26 pm

WaterleyShunter wrote:Perhaps use some superglue to spot-tack parts in place to keep them still when soldering up.


I strongly advise against this, heating up superglue can lead to the release of some very nasty fumes.

Whilst you can superglue the kits together, I'm not convinced that it would work as well as solder for some of the edge-to-edge joins (despite Allen's own examples). I'm a bit biased here, not because I am a fan of soldering, but I'm not a huge fan of superglue, finding that it doesn't bond so well and gets everywhere. Even with resin kits I'd rather use Araldite!

brack wrote:you mean NOT from Dapol kit parts? that is unexpected


Oh heck, there isn't a Dapol bit on this yet <gulp> I haven't built the re-railing bars under the bufferbeams yet, maybe I could find something for them?!

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Postby Colin Peake » Sun Mar 03, 2013 7:01 pm

Colin Peake wrote:Oh heck, there isn't a Dapol bit on this yet <gulp> I haven't built the re-railing bars under the bufferbeams yet, maybe I could find something for them?!


The de/re-railing bars are now in place, no Dapol parts used though, just scrap brass and some rail, soldered together in a jig. Ironically I have had to superglue these to the buffer beams as I've used plastic infills to tidy up the slots for the MiroTrains coupers and provide a mount for them behind the bufferbeam. Headlights on the cab front and rear have been made from HO scale truck wing mirrors on a homemade mounting :

Image

I did however find space for a little Dapol part in the grouping created to cover up the part of the Kato chassis that pokes out into the rear compartment. It's joined by a Merit 4mm scale postal sack in a new life as a bin bag. Can you tell what it is yet...:

Image

After some cleaning up both with a glass fibre brush and a good wash, I'll blacken the corners and vulnerable areas with gun blue, and then it will be time for primer (assuming the weather wants to warm up the workshop a little!).

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Postby demaine22 » Mon Mar 04, 2013 9:38 am

Nice additions Colin, it's all coming together nicely!
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Postby DCRfan » Tue Mar 05, 2013 4:11 am

Colin,

Are there any scale drawings of the prototype available?
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Postby Colin Peake » Tue Mar 05, 2013 10:43 pm

Hi Paul, I'm not aware of a drawing (or the dimensions of the real thing), if you could find out the length of an RH&DR original 4w coach my side-on view might be of use.... Sadly I never measured the ex-Porthcawl coach on a Romney frame we had in the exhibition at Cleethorpes (although it lurks in the back of the sheds should I get the chance...)

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Postby Simon Andrews » Wed Mar 06, 2013 3:49 pm

There was a 7mm scale printie that could be scaled up.

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Postby Colin Peake » Sun Apr 28, 2013 8:05 pm

If anyone could explain to me where the last (almost) two months have gone I'd be grateful....

However, at long last, the 'Scooter' is at a stage of completion, I did opt for 1970's style green in the end, which was brush applied (a blend of Citadel 'Snot green' and Vallejo 'Black green'). In contrast the yellow ends were sprayed with a Halfords aerosol in order to give a gloss base to apply the Fox wasp stripe transfers to. All other colours were brush applied and were all acrylics except the red, which was a Revell enamel. Varnish is Railmatch matt from an aerosol.

Once painting was complete and left to dry for a few days, I added glazing - 10 thou clear styrene held in place and coated with 'Kleer' floor polish, added Araldite to the headlights to make them look like light lenses, and also fitted the exhaust, load and roof in place, added weight in the cab and bonnet and fitted the Kato chassis in place with 'tacky wax'.

Since these pictures were taken I have added MicroTrains couplings and lightly weathered the model to a 'day to day' condition.

Image

Image

Image

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Postby Si » Mon Apr 29, 2013 7:47 am

As ever, Colin, your painting is excellent and makes the model look really solid.

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Postby Simon Andrews » Mon Apr 29, 2013 8:37 am

That's turned out nice.

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Postby MickT » Mon Apr 29, 2013 9:39 am

That looks very nice Colin and will be just the right motive power for the works train on the Shifting Sands Extension.....................

Hoping to be able to get to Burton this year and look forward to meeting up again.

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Postby demaine22 » Mon Apr 29, 2013 9:56 am

Excellent work as ever Colin 8)
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Postby Glen A » Mon Apr 29, 2013 7:02 pm

Great paint job! I do like the wap stripes at the ends.
And you have done a great job on the windows too 8)

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Postby Colin Peake » Mon Apr 29, 2013 7:43 pm

Thanks for the feedback chaps.

Glen - the wasp stripes are from Fox transfers, the only change I've had to make is to set them at a 33 degree angle rather than 45, that too some doing to get matching halves!

Mick - I hope you can make Burton, it will be good to see you again!

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