The GnATTERbox

[docnjoj]

OK! I'm gonna order some! But how do U attach them to the cars/coupler pockets? Can I make my own coupler pockets? Also Steve Bennet (sp? sorry Steve) showed a very simple buffer and link system, and I cant find the link. I did read about the toilet (W/C) chain for links, but could I bend my own? Many questions, so little time!
Doc
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David Rodvien (Doc)
Fairhope, AL USA
After extensive recalculation, I have determined that the meaning of life is NOT 42! The secret of life, however is "enjoying the passage of time" (James Taylor)

[Steve Bennett]

Tried searching the archives, but decided it was easier to take new pics than try and find ones I took previously . For fitting the DG couplings to cars/wagons, I dont use coupler pockets, just a simple modification of filing a shallow slot in the end beam to allow the coupler to be inserted. First pic shows the car on the left with the slot in the end and the one on the right with the coupler inserted.



Here is a closer view of the installed coupler, pretty unobtrusive and to my mind anyway, doesnt look like it needs anything else.



To actually hold it in place, glue can be used, but I prefer double sided sticky tape, which is less permanent and if needed, the coupler can be fairly easy to remove. The coupler is simply affixed to the underside of the floor of the car. It is a big help if all your stock has the floor at the same level of course, if using this method . Also shown here is a simple wiper made of wire which bears gently against one axle, just to give a little friction to prevent accidental uncoupling over the magnet which does attract the steel tires of the wheels (useful for Kadee users too)



The same or similar method can be used on a loco, but I prefer to mount them in a coupler pocket. The reason for this, is that it allows a bit of movement in the coupler, both sideways and vertically. The stem of the coupler is cut to size, then inserted into the pocket and a pin down through, holds it in place. Again, easy to remove, if required and simple to switch over to link and pin if desired.



Back in a minute with info on the simple link method.
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Steve Bennett
Sidelines
http://www.pepper7.co.uk

[Steve Bennett]

If I have understood your question correctly, this will be similar to the buffer and link you are referring to. Simplicity itself, each wagon has a central buffing block with a pin on top. When the cars are pushed together, a loop is then dropped over the adjoining pins, joining them together.





The couplings shown here are the standard Sidelines ones supplied with my kits and the loops are from a commercial chain. There is no reason not to make your own though, they are very simple and unless you need a lot, it shouldnt take long. If you plan on a lot of coupling/uncoupling, this type of setup, can become quite tiresome, but they are ideal for a simple continuous run type layout.

I hope that answers your questions.
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Steve Bennett
Sidelines
http://www.pepper7.co.uk

[docnjoj]

Thanks Steve, U hit the gnail on the head. Exactly the info I needed!
Doc
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David Rodvien (Doc)
Fairhope, AL USA
After extensive recalculation, I have determined that the meaning of life is NOT 42! The secret of life, however is "enjoying the passage of time" (James Taylor)

[AndyA]

Steve, with those little slots for the DG couplers and sticky tape, you could always glue a piece of thin brass angle to the back of one of your coupler mouldings (okay fiddly but...) and be able to swap them over...

just a thought...

regards
Andy A
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Gn15: Gnot so much a scale, more a state of mind
gnine: less is the gnew more
GnTonic - enjoy irresponsibly

[Steve Bennett]