but I was trying to suggest ways of doing it for those with a fear of soldering. After struggling to put together a 12 inch diameter circle with modified setrack sleepers, I don't think I will be trying again.
I tried to make a start on the same thing yesterday whilst waiting for my software tech, who had overslept. MOG notwithstanding, my attempt was all over the place before I'd done more than six inches. I eventually gave up and went back to sifting the Inland Revenue paperwork to fill in the time.
I've ordered some of those Fleischman small curves and intend to spend time on the train today planning scenery from the Kimmeridge area (yeah, okay, who plans the scenery for a pizza in advance?), but the rail from the flextrack is still left over, so I have a different cunning plan to avoid soldering (and spiking).
This thread has given me some kind of feeling for the accuracy required, so using the Goodwood and Ironside (Late Elizabethan) web site diagrams as a guide, I'm going to draw up a template for a web (rather than individual sleepers) for one-eighth of a six-inch radius circle. Even I should be able to PRE-BEND sections of rail this short and then use a jig made of pins in a board to hold the rail in place while I glue it down, and in sections this short the side-stresses shouldn't exceed the capabilities of a slow-setting ACC. Assembling the circle out of eight pieces should then be simple enough, if fiddly.
Actually, whilst typing this, I've just realised that there might be an even easier way. On the micro-traverser layout, I spaced the rails by cutting treadplate the right width to fit between the inside edges of the flat-bottom rail. If it works for straights, it ought to work for curves as well if the sheet is cut accurately, which I can do by fixing printout to the styrene, cutting slightly oversize and sanding to the lines. Then glue the PRE-BENT sections accurately to the board and, when set really solid, use the raised edges as a guide for gluing the rail. May try that first instead.