A recent posting HERE
, triggered an often asked question, on how I get the wood effect on resin castings. To save flicking between threads, here is an example of what this is about:
The technique I use is very simple, it is also far from predictable, so I'm never quite sure what the final results will be like, despite having used it for years. Thankfully, this suits the painting of wood very well.
OK, enough of an intro, let's get started. First off, the ingredients used for this particular recipe.
Starting from the rear left, a small jar of plain old water, next to that, Windsor and Newton black poster paint. Other makes are equally suitable, but you will find that artist quality Poster Paint has a finer pigment than the stuff produced for kids, which will still work (and is a lot cheaper).
Next we have the two base colours I used for this demo. The Revell Aqua Colour is in Beige (36_314), the decking at the head of this piece, is the first time I have used this paint and I'm very impressed with the results, when used with an airbrush, I haven't tried brush painting with it yet. The second colour is Humbrol Peach (255), probably not what you would think of as a suitable colour for something like this, which is the reason I chose it, the exact colour is really not too important.
Finally on the right at the back, Polyvine Dead Flat matte varnish, which I like for its ease of airbrushing and the really flat finish. If you don't have an airbrush, you will need an aerosol type matte varnish, something like Testors is ideal. Unfortunately, brushing on a matte varnish is not going to work with this method.
In front we have an artist acrylic palette, which cost pennies and are extremely useful. An alternative is a couple of lids from old 35mm film canisters. Finally in the photo, a syringe containing windscreen washer fluid, which you probably won't need if you have airbrushed the basecoat on, but will almost certainly be useful to break the surface tension of the washes if you brush paint.
Not shown, but very useful, are a couple of paintbrushes. Nothing special needed here, though for the washes, you want a brush that will hold a decent amount of liquid. I used a cheap imitation sable (size 4) from a bargain shop, made in China of course and they were 12 for a Pound. The second brush is just for mixing the wash and can be anything, I used another cheap imitation sable, size 0 this time though.
That's about all you need. I wont go into painting the base coat on, other than to say that I use a Matte Black car aerosol as a primer, then apply the basecoat over this. Now to get started properly, at last.
First off, preparing the black wash. No scientific measuring here, simply put some clean water into your mixing bowl, dip your paintbrush into the poster paint (you need very little) and add the paint to the water, giving it a good stir. Wash that brush out and put it to one side, any remnants of undiluted paint would be too intense if it got onto the surface you are painting. Take your clean brush, load it up with the wash and apply to your model, time for another pic:
Here you can very clearly see the wash is put on quite liberally. The piece on the left, which is done with the Revell Beige, was done first, the wash has started to evaporate and the paint is settling into the moulded detail. On the right is the Humbrol Peach coloured piece and you can clearly see that the paint is still very much in suspension in the water. This will start to settle quite quickly. I should point out, that all the way through this process, you can keep manipulating the wash, even after it is dry, as I will illustrate later. One big advantage over using acrylics for washes.
If you brush painted the base colour, there is a good chance that the wash will not spread evenly over the surface, but will gather together in blobs (technical term). If that happens, this is where the Windscreen Wash comes into play, simply add one drop to your wash, this will break down the surface tension and you should see it will spread evenly. It is quite surprising how much difference it makes, but DON'T be tempted to add neat screenwash to an acrylic paint surface, it will at the very least soften the acrylic, it may even dissolve it completely. Yes it can be used to strip some acrylic paints.
Next we see it after the wash has dried out further, the piece on the left is almost there, with a bit of moisture still glistening in the nooks and crannies, while the one on the right is still fairly wet overall, but the paint has settled out.
I picked the above two pieces to illustrate this technique, as they have a very pronounced grain moulded into them. This helps to get the idea across, but of course, not everything has that kind of relief, so a slight variation is called for. Here we have a third piece added to the collection.
The piece on the right I hope you can see, has a much lighter texturing to it. For this, exactly the same wash was used, but it was put on a lot less heavily, the way the paint acts though is exactly the same. The brush is fairly lightly flicked across the surface, going with the grain, so that not too much wash goes on. A paintbrush with a nicely pointed tip is a real bonus here as you can place the paint just where you want it, attention being payed in particular to the nail holes and gaps between planks. An added plus point is that the wash dries a lot quicker, as it is not applied so heavily. This is going to be more used than the really heavy washes, the reason for showing that was to illustrate how the paint reacts and settles into the crevices, kind of exaggerated for illustration purposes if you like.
Well, that concludes the rather long winded intro. In Part Two for which I just have to type the words, I will take things a little further and show how the idea works with more 3D shapes. Back soon(ish).